Lowering GTV6

[AR4me]

I do mine like Sam - works every time! The advantage of this method becomes even bigger if you are installing coil-overs (like RSR).
Jes

[GreyGTV6]

Quote:

Originally Posted by scott.venables Only changing the lower control arm on the torsion bar will change the ride height by about 2.5" per spline

[Grant]

I think it's really silly to just lower using a spline. I haven't even read the rest of page one yet, but I do know that all you need to do is hold the LCA where you want it and just keep twisting the torsion bar until it mates up front and back. Takes literally 30 seoncds more, and you have the advantage of putting the LCA wherever you actually want it.

Scott might have been referencing a Milano's shorter torsion bar? I'm not sure.

[GreyGTV6]

My torsion bars are locked in solid and I could not move them. I lowered the front on the A-arm 2 splines and the result from stock US ride height can be found on the link. I'm very happy with the result and it is exactly where I would have put it even if I could rotate the rear of the torsion bar. I had no alternative but to move the front only. For me, and I'm the only one who has to think so, it is correct. You are entitled to your opinion as to the result.
Pics of my GTV6 - Comments welcomed!!

[Grant]

If you had said that the reason why you jumped a spline was b/c you couldn't get your torsion bars out, then that's fine. I just don't think it's the preferred way to go, do you? What if you weren't using large wheels? Your sump would be that much closer. Better safe than sorry.

[Gabor K.]

Dropping(or rising) the lower A-arm one notch on the torsion bar does not work, been there, done that, etc. Compensating for a wrong adjustment with bigger wheels is not an optimal solution.
If loosening the torsion bars is the problem, there are several solutions. On the old cars with the long torsion bars, the rear crossmember holding the bars could be removed together with the bars. Then the bars could then be pressed out in a press. On the later models with the integrated crossmember our club has a press for sale for about 100-110USD. In most cases it will loosen the stuck torsion bar. If not, one has to heat and try again. The press should not be so difficult to replicate in a workshop or probably it could be ordered from our club.

[SamW]

I LOVE special Alfa tools!!! So, does this press push the torsion bar forward making it necessary to completely remove the lower A-arm? I don't need one, but if I ever do.....

[sh0rtlife]

cant belive ive not seen it mentioned....DO NOT gouge a torsion bar..if you do you need to file it out smooth or replace it outright...ive seen many a torsion bar snap due to someone whacking at it with a hammer or grabbing onto one with a pipewrench or other sharp toothed wrench.....therese enuf force to put the torsion bar thru the floor pan if they let go

mind you ive never seen an alfa one snaped but ive only seen a handfull of alfa's.....its somewhat common place on much older torsion bar cars tho

[Gabor K.]

Exactly, before using the tool the A-arm has to be removed.
The factory tool was a pull type using a thread in the rear of the torsionbar. That tool however is too weak for extracting bars that are really stuck. You just pull out the threads. So the press tool solves the problem! (In most cases).

[GreyGTV6]

I see very few problems with dropping the A arm. It's been done by Alfa owners for decades and there are no problems provided steering geometry is corrected afterwards. I run a set of 17" wheels on my car but the rolling circumference (or diameter) of the wheel is the same. There is no ground clearance gained with my wheel/tyre combo. Perhaps you may have a point with regards track racing and A arm adjustment but mine is a street car that will never see a track. Regardless of adjusting only the front end, or both ends of the torsion bar in order to gain the same result, there is no difference. Both methods would be exactly the same for an equal drop. There is no way I would use heat to remove my torsion bar. It would remove any factory corrosion protection (if any exists from Alfa) and I have no idea how much heat is required before it messes with the spring properties, simply for the sake of rotating both ends.

[Gabor K.]

It seems we cannot get through to you! Have you ever read the factory manual? There its clearly described how to adjust the height of the car! And its by rotating the torsion bars, not by dropping the A-arm one notch. By rotating the bar you can adjust for a drop of 3cm which is OK. By dropping the front one notch you will lower 5-6cm which is too much and there is a risk of ground contact. I had it all the time! So you can do whatever you want with your car, but its established that the correct way of lowering is by rotating the bars!

[GreyGTV6]

I have the factory manual and you don't have to get through to me. Lowering the car on the A arm IS rotating the torsion bar. I'm very sorry if you cannot figure a simple concept like that. But I chose to do it on the front only as it gave me the drop I required. Had I required a height inbetween what is provided by the front spline alone I would have needed to rotate the rear as well to gain the vernier effect that Alfa provided with unequal number of splines front and rear. Go turn your torsion bars as many times as you want, and I will make sure my car does not wreck its' sump. If it does it is because I have chosen to run it that low, and has nothing to do with the fact I lowered on the front only. End of subject.

[daz]

by rotating the bar at both ends, correct me if im wrong, will retain the torsional strength of the bar and lower the ride height but by turning the torsion bar at one end only, will reduce the torsion although it will still lower the car. like putting softer springs on .I dont think one notch will make it a lot softer.

[GreyGTV6]

I don't think you are correct. The torsion bar is "held" on each end and a twist (the weight of the car) is applied to it. I can't see how it would provide a different spring rate. With the vernier effect provided by unequal number of splines is the ability to set the car to within a mm or 2. In my case the US spec is about the lift gained by a single spline turn, so lowering it would give about the same height as a Euro spec car. I was looking for a car a bit lower than that so I dropped it 1 more spline. Lets assume it dropped it 1 1/4" and i only wanted a drop of 1" I would have no option but to set the A arm in its position and rotate the torsion bar both side until the splines lines up with the A arm in front and the cross member at the rear.

[mjr]

I think Daz is correct. By raising the arm by 1-2 splines at the font, you ARE changing the spring rate of the torsion bar, you are simply putting less torsional comression on the bar, which makes it less reactive, just like a spring, that is why the manual directs you to change the back and front, to preserve the same reaction rate. I think!