Improve headlights light GTV6

[A_Alfa]

Is there a way in which I can improve the light given by the headlights of my GTV6?

Until today I have changed Main beam headlights as previous were old (24 yrs) and full of small scratchs and stone marks, and also fitted new Osram bulbs it has improved but need more.

I will instal relays but I am not too good with electrics, has anybody have done it and have the wiring diagrams photos or something that could help.....

Also maybe fitting a new Alternator......but wich one....

Thanks.

[das]

Greg Gordon sells an upgrade kit. I was thinking about it as well...you can contact him for details...


I can't see squat at night, but maybe I'm getting old as well...

[Giorgio68]

Alfa's are not meant to drive at night.......only on sunny days....LOL!!!
Yes the GTV6 headlights are the worst same on mine, I think one reason it has to do with the GTV6 seating position its hard to see clearly in front of you.

Giorgio

[Tassie Tuner]

If the headlights are normal 5.75" four headlight inserts, you may be able to replace them with aftermarket European standard headlight inserts, by quality manufacturers such as Hella, Cibie or Narva. Something like what is shown on Daniel Stern's website, here: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/p.../products.html . They are usually available at most auto supply shops - here in Oz, at Autobarn, Repco or Supercheap Auto. I had a set of Hella four headlight inserts on an old Mazda I once owned. The centre main beam lights were their 'long range driving beam inserts', and it was the only car of many that I've owned that I didn't either run driving lights on, or wish for better headlights! They were excellent for driving on twisty rural roads at night, although you had to watch out for wildlife on the road. Compared to the standard Mazda (Stanley brand) sealed beam headlights, it was like night and day! I would point you to Hella's Australian website, but it is extremely slow today, for some reason! So here are the Narva (owned by Philips) equivalents: http://www.narva.com.au/ForwardLighting_20.html and http://www.narva.com.au/ForwardLighting_21.html .

If you can't replace the lights with those sort of inserts, then driving lights are the answer. I used to run a set of Cibie Ocar Plus driving lights on my Alfetta 2000 sedan, and they were superb, but even smaller driving lights should be OK - just go for the brands I mentioned, or good quality Japanese driving lights like PIAA or IPF. The Oscars Pluses used to - just - fit behind the bumper of the Alfetta, and I used adjustable hose clamps (straightened out) at the top of the lamps to steady and adjust them. Cibie also make lamp steady bars which are useful for large lamps. Just make sure you specify driving lights, not fog lights. Most US brands are fairly ordinary for headlights and driving lights, I've found - sorry, you Americans! Daniel Stern, who is a US car lighting expert who has advised their government about headlights, agrees with me! Some larger driving lights give you a choice of beams - 'spot' or 'pencil' beams, and 'driving' 'spread' or 'wide' beams. It's usually best to go for wide beam, or spread beam, driving lights, rather than pencil or spot beam lights, for most driving. Spot beam lights just light up the road itself at very long range, whereas spread beam lamps, usually designated 'driving lights' give you distance and spread, so that you can see things (like wildlife, or domestic pets) to the side off the road. Spot beams are really only necessary for rallying, or on very long straight roads at high speeds, and are ALWAYS used in conjunction with spread beam lights. Some Australian drivers go for one spread beam and one driving beam, but personally, I always go for two spread beam, or driving beam, driving lights.

And finally, the other thing that you can do to improve the light output from almost any headlights, is to install heavier wiring and relays. On a late model (1998) Honda, I found that 2 volts was being lost between the battery and the headlight bullbs - roughly 15%, and the car was almost straight off the showroom floor when I measured them. According to Hella, that means that the lights are only putting out about 53% of the light that they are capable of. When I installed a headlight loom with heavier duty wiring and relays, the light improved spectacularly, and yes, it did look twice as bright! Daniel Stern gives some excellent advice on how to do it yourself here: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...ys/relays.html . If you can't do that, some manuafacturers sell plug-in wiring looms to upgrade your headlights, in some countries. Hella, Piranha and ARB manufacture them in Australia. Here in Oz, 4WD equipment sellers such as ARB, TJM or Opposite Lock sell them. ARB also sell in the USA - see http://www.arbusa.com/ , and in other countries, including the UK.

You shouldn't need a new alternator, unless your current one is faulty. That won't provide any increase in light. (I have an electrical engineering qualification, so you can trust what I say!) The other thing which may be of use is to upgrade the bulbs to modern high performance bulbs. These generally use Xenon high pressure gas in the globes. Go for high quality manuafacturers such as Philips, Narva, Cibie, Hella, Osram or Bosch, not Asian rubbish in flashy packaging, which promises a lot, but usually fails to deliver. The better manufacturers often market theirs as "Plus 50" or "Plus 30", indicating that they perform 30% or 50% better than equivalent power globes, at about 75 metres from the car on high beam. See http://www.narva.com.au/Globes_21.html .

Regards,
Don

[A_Alfa]

thanks all, especiallly Don for the help.

[Mark_toro]

I have the Hella H4 set up on my GTV6 - I drive daily on interstate highways in the dark (early AM) and am fussy about being able to see the deer.

The lows are fair but the high beams are excellent. You can get them through IAP, or search e-bay for 5.75 H4 - that's where I got the one to replace the light broken by a stone.

I am definately going to look into the wiring (especially for the lows) and see if I can find some "free" light there. After 22 years and given Alfa's quality connectors, there may be some to be found.

[GTVis4me]

I have the H4 hellas as well. Their a BIG improvement over stock.

[AlfaRomeo1750]

I fitted my GTV-6 with a set of HP Sylvania Halogens from National Auto stores. They were $7.00 a head lamp, and the light is enough to play pro sports by... or guide in planes on a foggy night

Cheers
Martin.

[Balocco211]

I installed a "generic" relay headlight kit from painlesswiring.com. Relay kit, Hella E2 lens with 100/80w H4 and 100w H3 made all the difference. Disadvantage with "painless" was wires needed modified to shorter lengths.


I found light bulb wattage over 100w has a tendancy to overheat in the 5.75" lamp buckets and burn out the bulb.

Greg Gordon's relay kit looks complete and is probably a good starting point to better night vision.

There is much discussion on preference of lens brand on this board with Cibie and Hella having strong user support on either side.

[ycserve]

Has anyone ever refinished the headlight buckets?

[HenrikMagnusson]

I've heard, but not tried myself, that the headlights from older (late 80's to mid 90's or so) BMW 3- and 5-series fit with just minor modifications. Go see your local scrappie and find out!

Best of luck,

Henrik

[beatle_bayly]

Just a reminder that the US cars use a separate 'bucket' to hold the glass and so one can change the light easily for a generic brand. In Australia, and a lot of Europe, the GTV6 headlights are manufactured with the locating pins cast into the glass. Hence replacements are limited to factory items (Carello).

My recommendation for Aussie cars is to source a set of US buckets then upgrade with new lights. Of course, relays are a compulsory mod, and new wiring is also good insurance.

[ycserve]

Quote:

Originally Posted by beatle_bayly Just a reminder that the US cars use a separate 'bucket' to hold the glass and so one can change the light easily for a generic brand. In Australia, and a lot of Europe, the GTV6 headlights are manufactured with the locating pins cast into the glass. Hence replacements are limited to factory items (Carello). My recommendation for Aussie cars is to source a set of US buckets then upgrade with new lights. Of course, relays are a compulsory mod, and new wiring is also good insurance.

[beatle_bayly]

Hmmmmmmm.......sounds a little confusing.

The 'bucket' is the steel contraption that accepts the light. Originally the buckets would have been a gold colour from the cad (?) plating, but they don't have a reflector. Cad replate kits are available, though I wouldn't recommend anyone play with cadmium.

The light itself has the reflective inner surface, be it either a sealed beam, or accepts a bulb. If the reflective surface is dirty it may be cleaned up (except in a sealed beam light) but often the surface peels off and is beyond help.

On the 'euro' type Carellos, fitting higher wattage bulbs often causes premature discolouration of the reflectors, though these lights are short lived at the best of times.

Sounds as though your lights are due for replacement so any generic 5-3/4" glass should fit, but someone your side of the world is better placed to comment than me. Changing the style of the glass will change the 'look' of the car.

Below is a pic of a 'rusty' headlight 'bucket', next to a 'euro' style Carello light for comparison.
On the bucket you can see the overcentre clips used to pull the front trim ring into place, in turn retaining your (US) light. On the Carello it's all one piece and the pivot pins (about which the light swivels for beam adjustment) are formed into the light itself. AFAIK these lights fit NOTHING but Alfettas, which is a right BUGGER !!!!

[ycserve]

Thanks for the get back Beatle. Sounds a little confusing because I made it so. We have composite light units with high intensity hallogen capsules. My "bucket" referenced the reflective dome, back part of unit. What we are thinking about doing is seperating the front glass from the reflective dome, re-finishing the reflectant then re-sealing the unit. Any success trying this? Could be I'm beating a dead horse and maybe I should go ahead and get all new, Interestingly, when these 100-80W cibie capsules were installed, I as well could light up a sports arena (or melt a plastic bumper cap on a vehicle parked too close). Sounds like you're saying the inside of the dome, somewhat yellowish and pitted, is toast.