GTV6 crankshaft pulley nut - last resort ideas? - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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GTV6 crankshaft pulley nut - last resort ideas?

I've never known any nut, anywhere, on anything to be as tight as the crankshaft pulley nut on my GTV6. This is a car on which many parts have been unnecessarily difficult to remove (one day in the future, somebody is going to be very grateful for the amount of copper grease I've been smearing over nearly all the threads in the car - save those few where you want loctite). And this nut is the last nut remaining to remove.

However, we have tried everything we can think of, and to no avail. I've even been asked if I'm sure it's not a left-hand thread (surely if it was the manual would say so...). Yes, the metal ring has been tapped out from the groove. And yes, the engine is locked in position.

The manual does say remove the calking... Can't see any, but with the amount of time the blowtorch has spent heating up the nut I'm surprised the block didn't melt (OK, I'm exaggerating there) as well as various products sprayed on it, so any calking ought to theoretically be long gone... A snap-on air gun running off a pretty big snap-on compressor was a waste of time. A 3/4" drive socket arm, with a meter long tube slid over it for extra leverage as a breaker bar didn't do anything either. No way is a torque wrench going to work like the manual suggests.

It's a shame, because I've got new crankshaft oil seals etc and it would be nice to put them on, but I've reached a point where I'm afraid that using any more force than I have already will damage the block - or the engine stand, and I've resigned myself to accepting that if the oil seal does fail one day (if it hasn't already - the whole of the engine was covered in crud so hard to see where it was coming from) I'll just have to top up the oil every so often. Better than risking a cracked block.

Although, if anybody has any last-resort ideas that are worth a try before the engine goes back in the car, please let me know...
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1975 Giulia GT1300 Junior, 1981 GTV6, some modern German stuff, and a 1958 Messerschmitt KR201.
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 11:04 PM
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Your not helping me fix my car at all lol. If your that stuck drill a small hole in the nut and keep feeding it with wd40. Start small and close to the crank. You can always go bigger. The crank is very hard you would have to really try hard to damage it. keep trying with the air gun. This picture shows what I mean.
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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 11:06 PM
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nut

picture of nut i found on the net
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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 11:12 PM
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PS Have a look for water leaking in around the bottom corners of the windscreen.
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 11:34 PM
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The crank pulley nut has a torque figure of 175ft/lb or 235nm and is second only to the rear hub nuts at over 200ft/lb as the tightest on these cars
with the engine on the ground and the flywheel attached lock the flywheel at the ring gear and use the air gun or a long bar to try and undo the nut. And as confirmation the nut is a normal right hand thread locking the flywheel adds a little leverage
if that does not work I would drill a series of holes in the nut to weaken it and then cut it off using a chisel to split the nut

photos show different tools and ways to lock the flywheel

cheers
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Last edited by sportiva; 03-12-2017 at 12:02 AM.
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 07:22 AM
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And use real penetrating oil, not WD40. I really like Kroil, but you can't find it except at some industrial fastener supply stores, or online.

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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 11:04 AM
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I had the similar experience in trying to remove a 3-groove front crank pulley from a removed 2.5 V6. Before I go farther... I had zero luck too.

After purchasing the proper socket size, I connected that with a serious breaker bar and added a 4 foot pipe to get max leverage. Slamming on the far end of the pipe with a sledge had no effect. My next plan, when I eventually get back to it, was to rent an electric impact driver to see if that was a better answer. Altho, it sounds like you already tried that too! I was marginally clever enough to notice the capture washer. But never quite sure if I was wrenching in the right direction.

As I wasn't 100% clear on the above... is the correct direction "Righty Tighty--- Lefty Lucy"? Or, the reverse of that? That should give me more confidence when I get back to that project. Thanks! Sorry for the kindergarten description, but considering my mechanical skills that's easiest for me. Pretty sure I was alert enough to judge the direction by seeing what the one or two exposed male threads were suggesting.

Peter
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 03:41 PM
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You might want to consider one of these, after giving it the penetrating oil treatment for 24 hours:

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0281875?r=~|categoryl1:%22600241%20Tools%209and%20 Equipment%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%22600268%20Hand%20T ools%22|~%20~|categoryl3:%22600350%20Wrenches,%20W rench%20Sets%209and%20Accessories%22|~%20~|categor yl4:%22611982%20Striking%209and%20Slugging%20Wrenc hes%22|~%20~|sattr01:^1-5/8%22$|~

Although the question is, will the wrench fit over the hex nut deep enough so you can get a good "bite" on it? Nothing like a BFH to convince things to let go...
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 04:16 PM
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The crank pulley nut has 'normal' right hand threads - looking at the front of the engine, counter clockwise* to remove.

If the engine is in the car and the starter motor is functional, you can prop a wrench in place - the handle on the left side of the car (left as if sitting in the driver's seat) and activate the starter motor. The high torque starter motor combined with the mechanical advantage of the starter gear meshing with the ring gear should spin it right off. (or break the wrench...) I've done this many times on many different engines. It works fine. (I haven't broken any wrenches - or flywheels - yet.)

* but everyone has a digital clock...
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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 05:19 PM
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My stubborn nut project thanks you all for the advice above !! May require a combination of those.

Sounds like those may have a better chance of success than my next option--- high explosives.
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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 05:31 PM
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Nut

A "Snap-On" 1/2" drive ratchet has little torque.
Go to Harbor freight and get a 3/4" air ratchet. It will have it off quickly!
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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ibeatgodzilla View Post
The manual does say remove the calking...

Yes, the metal ring has been tapped out from the groove.
Thats what the Italians mean by calking.

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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 08:54 PM
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And make sure you're getting full line air pressure from your air compressor, too. Sock it with at least 90 to 100 psi.

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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 10:40 PM
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nuts

3/4 air gun is worth a try however sometimes that wont even work. I count three (alfa 24V) in the last ten years I have had to drill/cut off and the 3/4 air gun we had was the size of a jack hammer along with a huge air compressor and plenty of psi.
Sometimes your nuts just get stuck!
If anyone is ever playing with a late model ts or jts take note the crank nut is left hand thread.
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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 11:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planetmojo2 View Post
My stubborn nut project thanks you all for the advice above !! May require a combination of those.

Sounds like those may have a better chance of success than my next option--- high explosives.
Just make sure to cover the paint with something... newspapers or whatever...

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