GTV6 crankshaft pulley nut - last resort ideas? - Page 2 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 03:36 AM Thread Starter
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Lots of ideas here!

Unfortunately the four foot pipe and BFH didn't work for me either.

Starter motor trick sounds interesting but now that the engine is currently out, a bit of a pain to put it all back in, and out again, to get a nut undone.
This doesn't sound clever I'll admit... But when the engine is mostly built up again, simply attach the starter to the engine, hook it up to a battery and whack the wrench against the ground? Is that the recipe for disaster that it sounds like, or actually perhaps not quite such a stupid idea?

I would consider killing it if only I could find anybody selling new ones! No luck so far.

Question: if the oil seal is fine, then there's nothing to worry about. But if it starts leaking one day, what's the worst that could happen? Besides needing to check and occasionally top up the oil?

P.S. Lol sorry Alfettaparts2 I'd happily help you with your car if I could!

1975 Giulia GT1300 Junior, 1981 GTV6, some modern German stuff, and a 1958 Messerschmitt KR201.
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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 08:09 AM
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A pneumatic impact has always zinged off the crank nuts in a few moments, in my experience.

Rob
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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 10:26 AM
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Apply heat by torch until well hot, hit it with AeroKroil (or the likes), then hit with impact.
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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 12:19 PM
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I think you need to increase the length of the tool arm!

If you increase the length of the tube to 2-2,5m with a lock tool on the crank flywheel, things will start to move. Done this trick on a centerlock wheel nut which eventually had to give. But first the 3/4" pin for the socket broke off!
Warming up the crank nut with a heat gun will also help to loosen up the nut.

G.
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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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To be truthful I'd be afraid to use a longer bar for leverage... even with this one it felt like the engine stand might break/lift up on one side and topple over... although it's rated to take a v8 I can't say it doesn't oil like it's under quite some stress when the full weight of this engine is in it.

(Groan) is a bit of potentially leaking oil the worst that will happen if I can't remove it? I can bring the pistons up (with the liners held in place) to change the rings so that's not a problem.
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post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 09:24 AM
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To be truthful I'd be afraid to use a longer bar for leverage... even with this one it felt like the engine stand might break/lift up on one side and topple over... although it's rated to take a v8 I can't say it doesn't oil like it's under quite some stress when the full weight of this engine is in it.

(Groan) is a bit of potentially leaking oil the worst that will happen if I can't remove it? I can bring the pistons up (with the liners held in place) to change the rings so that's not a problem.
Have you tried a strong (i.e. 3/4" drive!) pneumatic impact gun yet? Sometimes it helps to use the impact to first tighten the nut THEN loosen it.
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post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 10:49 AM
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Have you tried a strong (i.e. 3/4" drive!) pneumatic impact gun yet? Sometimes it helps to use the impact to first tighten the nut THEN loosen it.
Rob's right. Shock is what you're after. Heck, you might want to place a wide chisel on a flat of the nut, and whack it two or three times in different spots. All these methods I've used over the years, at one time or another. Did you get some real penetrating oil?

When I made the point about high air pressure, I meant to say verify the pressure at the point of use, not by reading a gauge on the tank or filter. If there's a filter, and it's partly clogged (like many are), you might not be getting full tank pressure at the impact wrench. Is there a pressure regulator along with a filter, that might not be set high enough?

Take that big 3/4" drive impact wrench, and alternately switch it right/left, CW/CCW, after you've whacked the nut a few times with the chisel. Let's see what happens...

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post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 11:38 AM
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Have you tried a strong (i.e. 3/4" drive!) pneumatic impact gun yet? Sometimes it helps to use the impact to first tighten the nut THEN loosen it.
Agree. You may need to remove a lot in front of the engine if it is the car but impact is the key. I've sheared bolts using long pry bars. Less force delivered in rapid succession will work better than a larger force applied by hand. I sprung for a Milwaukee fuel and it hasn't been defeated. Air impact guns are less if you have or can borrow a good compressor. Some tools the pros use are a requirement.

68' Parisian Alfa GTV 1750
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post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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I don't have a 3/4" impact gun, nor does anybody I know 1/2" is the best I can do.

P.S. harbor freight is an American thing, it doesn't exist in France...

No offense but Milwaukee Fuel is a joke in my case... My Bosch Pro impact driver is top of the range and not anywhere near close enough powerful to do the job.

1975 Giulia GT1300 Junior, 1981 GTV6, some modern German stuff, and a 1958 Messerschmitt KR201.
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post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 02:37 PM
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Put the engine on the floor in a stable position, leaning on one cylinder row, and then you use the long bar. Nothing will topple.

G.
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post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 02:50 PM
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.
No offense but Milwaukee Fuel is a joke in my case... My Bosch Pro impact driver is top of the range and not anywhere near close enough powerful to do the job.
None taken. Bosch is nice. The M18 (half inch drive) lists 600lb/ft break force and 450lb/ft tightening. That should be enough to do front wheel drive axle nuts let alone crank pulleys but yours sounds special - good luck.

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post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 05:46 PM
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If a PO used a high strength Locktite then you need to use heat to soften the glue enough to remove the nut (in addition to lots of leverage/impact).

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post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 11:41 PM Thread Starter
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Very true but it looks as if the previous owner hadn't touched the bottom half of the engine.

For things that are 'supposed' to last only 30,000 miles, the water pump bearing actually felt pretty good... and it looks as if it may be the original. I'm changing it anyway though for peace of mind.

Looks like the previous owner had taken the car apart before but not not to the extent that I have and not necessarily rebuilt it 'by the book'.

1975 Giulia GT1300 Junior, 1981 GTV6, some modern German stuff, and a 1958 Messerschmitt KR201.
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post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 02:42 PM
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Racingswim2006->> delete some of your PMs then PM me again. I have the megasquirt ecu you replied to last week.
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