Are my plug wires bad and if so would that cause stalling after the car is hot? - Page 2 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

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post #16 of 72 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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Those are actually the EXACT plugs I installed. Checked against the Amazon order and everything.

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post #17 of 72 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 02:49 PM
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too rich look at O2 sensor

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post #18 of 72 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 03:14 PM
But Mad North-Northwest
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Read the post. His digital tach is jumping around which means the miss is a spark issue, not a fuel or mixture issue.

I don't have my V6 anymore...they have a crank position sensor? Can't remember. If so that could be going bad when hot.

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post #19 of 72 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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No, there's no crank position sensor.
What about the Hall effect sensor though? How can I test that? After talking with guys on a different board I think it has to be some conductivity breakdown as the result of heat. Very common, especially with older wiring.
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post #20 of 72 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 04:03 PM
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Oh man...THAT thing. I forgot about that: it's a piece of crap.

The sensor isn't too bad, but the connector is awful and causes all sorts of problems. It's the two-wire connector on the outside of the distributor body. Try jiggling it or something and see if you can replicate the problem.

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post #21 of 72 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 04:09 PM
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Charlie here. If you think.it will make it to the lake, I have a great running 82 gtv6 we can swap parts on till we find what wrong. You have my emailk
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post #22 of 72 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 05:35 PM
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His digital tach is jumping around which means the miss is a spark issue, not a fuel or mixture issue.
I came in part way through and missed that. Jumping tach points to the primary coil circuit, not the coil, HT wires etc. That circuit includes the hall sensor and the ignition module which can breakdown as they heat up. I suggest checking the temperature of them when the poor running commences or just touching them with your finger. Or point a heat gun at them, one at a time to see if you can make it misfire. I don't know if they are still available as they might have been banned, but aerosol freeze spray cans were popular when TV repair men did component troubleshooting. You would spray the hall sensor or the ignition module when you have the misfire and see if it improves things. That would tell you which one is breaking down.

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post #23 of 72 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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So I did replace the ignition module recently, and it actually helped. It seems I'm incrementally fixing the problem! I probably just had multiple components that were worn out and would fail when they got hot. Originally the car would stall and die after a few minutes. Turns out it was a bad coolant temp sensor, causing the car to run FAR too rich, before flooding and stalling. It would take 10 or 15 minutes before I could restart. Then, the car would stall out when I got on the throttle. Usually it would restart after a minute or two. A new coil fixed that. Then it would stutter, buck, and try to stall after just a few minutes of running. Ignition module fixed that. Now it misses and wants to stall after a solid 10-15 minutes of running, but only at idle below 1200 rpm. It'll miss and snort a bit, but if I crack the throttle it'll stay alive, and run fine under moderate to heavy throttle.

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post #24 of 72 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 10:46 PM
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Lightbulb You know you want to...

There's your fix! Just drive everywhere full throttle!!
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post #25 of 72 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 09:31 AM
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Poor running at low rpm and good running under power is not an ignition problem or fuel supply problem. Either rich mixture or lean mixture or plug(s) fouling. My son's Verde behaved like your car when the gas tank was pressurizing but you could have a leaky injector.

Ed Prytherch
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post #26 of 72 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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I tested the injectors recently, and they're all A-OK. Tell me more about the fuel tank issues? I've asked previously about the weirdly high pressure in the tank (audible creaking, blowing the gas cap off like a champagne cork) but was always told that's normal.

No, my car is definitely missing. I'll try to get some video/audio up this evening.

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post #27 of 72 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chairmankaga View Post
I've asked previously about the weirdly high pressure in the tank (audible creaking, blowing the gas cap off like a champagne cork) but was always told that's normal.
That doesn't sound normal at all! A little pressure is normal, but that sounds excessive. Not saying it's the source of your current problem, but it's something you should probably look at.

I'm not super familiar with the GTV6 tank vent system but tank venting isn't rocket science. Usually one of the hoses or orifices is plugged, or the one-way valve isn't...valving...or something.
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post #28 of 72 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Gubi View Post
That doesn't sound normal at all! A little pressure is normal, but that sounds excessive. Not saying it's the source of your current problem, but ....
A quick diagnostic for chairmankaga would be driving with the gas cap off. If the missing goes away, then excessive fuel pressure seems like the culprit.

Agree that you shouldn't drive on twisty roads, with a full tank of gas, and no gas cap. Otherwise it should be OK.
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post #29 of 72 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 11:00 AM
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Don't be Cheap change them!! Did mine last year after chasing this erratic running and changing the wires fixed everything!!
I got the exact replacements from Centerline, no need to purchase any after market junk!

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post #30 of 72 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 05:57 PM
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I used to have similar symptoms on my S4 Spider, and I found a bad check valve in the tank vent circuit. Once it warmed up, in hot weather, would idle rough, all over the map. Way too much pressure in the tank.
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