Brake bleeding

[bayalfagtv6]

Well, had the drivers side rear caliper start leaking at the emergency brake mechanism. Replaced both calipers with rebuilt units. After that I had no pedal at all, all the way to the floor. Replaced the MC with a new ATE 22mm.unit. I have been bleeding the brakes with a power bleeder at the master cylinder and the old have assistant pump pedal and open bleeder screw. I have worked around the brake system at leaset 10 times and am still getting a slghtly soft pedal. After 1 pump pedal comes back to normal. Checked the brake booster and it operates normally. (hard pedal when car is off) Could this be a bad master cylinder, what have I missed. I have pumped at least 4-5 pints of fluid thru the system.
Anybody got any ideas?
I'm stumped, I've done this procedure before and have never had this much trouble bleeding the brakes. I am getting no air in the bleeder tubes and have even pressurized the system at the MC and let it sit for a couple of hours, there is no brake line leak and the pressure at the bleeder stays at 12-14 psi.
Anybody have this much trouble bleeding the system?
Oh yeah, the car is a 1985 GTV6 with the clutch cylinder tied into the brake master cylinder, and yes I did bleed the clutch too.

[Gubi]

I recently had the rear discs and calipers replaced on the Milano. The car stopped but had a loooong pedal. It got better after a bit of driving, but the ultimate fix was to rebleed and reset clearances after a week.

This appears to be a common problem, and I suspect it's a combination of the pads needing to bed and there being a LOT of tiny nooks and crannies in the Milano rears for air bubbles to hide.

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/mila...learnings.html

[Eman911]

One thing to try would be to put the hydraulics "on the stick" overnight. Depress the brake pedal to put the system under pressure. Use a stick to hold the brake pedal. Let it sit! Also be sure to double or triple check the adjustment of the rear pads.