Water pump noise

[Biba69]

I've been hearing a rattling sound, so Alfetta GT is up and stands and all connections on the exhaust are tight plus hitting the various mufflers with a rubber mallet didn't cause any internal rattling.

With car on stands I started the engine - okay, should have done it first thing - and the rattling is from the front of the engine. The water pump makes a growling sound when being 'spun'. It only spins for about half a turn.

However, the pulley doesn't wiggle and no water is coming out. I have a new waterpump but not excited about changing it right away.

That said, the French/Italian meet is this Sunday and is about 35 miles from me.

I know, replace...or has anyone lived with the growling/rattling sound for sometime with no ill affects?

[ossodiseppia]

I wouldn't drive the car if the pump is making a noise. It could be the bearing is binding.

Back in the day when my sedan was a daily driver, the impeller shaft sheared off and left me stranded without a functioning water pump. If you have a new pump, change it out so you can go for the drive on Saturday.

[Biba69]

Actually it's making a sort of a rattling sound, and at idle the rattling will stop for a few seconds, then return.

I have no desire to go through the double nutting drill, so will be taking off the A/C condenser and radiator to rattle the crank nut off. I've been wanting to install an auxiliary fan on the radiator, so will make use of the hassle.

[xray]

you should not have to take the crank pulley off to change out the water pump. The two bottom bolts can be reached on either side of the pulley.

If you are doing you timing belt too, I have managed to get a new timing belt on with the crank pulley in place. I just cut the old one off and slip it through.

also, check you alternator for the rattle

[ossodiseppia]

Quote:

Originally Posted by xray you should not have to take the crank pulley off to change out the water pump. The two bottom bolts can be reached on either side of the pulley.

[xray]

that explains it..thought Biba had a 2.5 or 3.0..now I see Alfetta GT.

Tips for removing crank nut(my way, not for everyone. better than a 6 foot breaker and ring gear lock. Don't torque the guibos):

remove the center emblem(hidden screw behind badge)

radiator/ac stuff out

loosen one engine mount

jack up engine until nut is visible through removed center emblem

peen back retainer

put a 1 in impact gun on the nut and it will pop right off. you won't even need to lock the crank.

so easy a rug rat can do it.

[ossodiseppia]

Quote:

Originally Posted by xray that explains it..thought Biba had a 2.5 or 3.0..now I see Alfetta GT. Tips for removing crank nut(my way, not for everyone. better than a 6 foot breaker and ring gear lock. Don't torque the guibos): remove the center emblem(hidden screw behind badge) radiator/ac stuff out loosen one engine mount jack up engine until nut is visible through removed center emblem peen back retainer put a 1 in impact gun on the nut and it will pop right off. you won't even need to lock the crank. so easy a rug rat can do it.

[Biba69]

Thanks guys. xray, okay, it's small, but didn't you notice the chrome ..fetta GT on the trunk lid and also hard to see but it also has the early louvered rear vent. I'm referring to my icon, but believe that's not the correct name for it, but should be.

Once everything's out, it is just as easy for me to stick the impact wrench inside to chatter it off. Awfully cute photo though. Was the air compressor on at the time? If so, what if...?

Now...how about tightening it back to 140 ft pds? I'm really not sure if one can actually overtighten this nut but I feel better on major components to get the toque setting pretty accurate. Meaning, get it close with the impact wrench, then finish torquing by hand. I put the car in low and pull the hand brake, but always feel I'm also tweaking components along the way.

For a long time I both undid and, umm, redid the nut for the clutch shaft until one time I checked the rediding part. Not remotely close to the required torque setting.

Using my special stethoscope (engine hoist handle) the clackity sound definitely comes from the waterpump 'area'. I say area since it has occurred to me that the timing chain might be loose. Not likely, but worth a look and while I have the cam cover off, I can give it a bit of a polish.

[ossodiseppia]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Biba69 Thanks guys. xray, okay, it's small, but didn't you notice the chrome ..fetta GT on the trunk lid and also hard to see but it also has the early louvered rear vent. I'm referring to my icon, but believe that's not the correct name for it, but should be. Once everything's out, it is just as easy for me to stick the impact wrench inside to chatter it off. Awfully cute photo though. Was the air compressor on at the time? If so, what if...? Now...how about tightening it back to 140 ft pds? I'm really not sure if one can actually overtighten this nut but I feel better on major components to get the toque setting pretty accurate. Meaning, get it close with the impact wrench, then finish torquing by hand. I put the car in low and pull the hand brake, but always feel I'm also tweaking components along the way. For a long time I both undid and, umm, redid the nut for the clutch shaft until one time I checked the rediding part. Not remotely close to the required torque setting. Using my special stethoscope (engine hoist handle) the clackity sound definitely comes from the waterpump 'area'. I say area since it has occurred to me that the timing chain might be loose. Not likely, but worth a look and while I have the cam cover off, I can give it a bit of a polish.

[Biba69]

My medium to small impact wrench also has three settings. However, I have not a clue what ft pd each setting goes to. I also imagine it depends a lot on the air pressure. My big old compressor only goes to 100 pds. However, I've spun off numerous crank nuts with it, though it has problems if there is rust. There is no rust on mine.

[Biba69]

This is merely muttering's to myself. Turns out the timing chain was loose. Best I can tell is that I hadn't tightened the chain tensioner enough. My guess is that at higher speeds it began to loosen up. Not sure.

It's all back together and it won't start. Yes, I went over the possible culprits, ignition wires on correctly, etc. For now I'm hoping I just flooded the engine from turning the engine (by hand) over a number of times. Carbs, so no need for electricity to get involved in the flooding.

This is just my rambling, so smoke if you've got 'em. Since the ignition timing was timed to 'the way it was before', that might be the problem. I'm currently recharging the battery a bit. My battery drops to 11.8 overnight, assuming I drove it the day before. This is off the subject but my newish rebuilt (same as on 3.0 Milanos) alternator charges only to 13.8 when revving the engine. The prior one (before it died) charged to 14.2. I'm thinking of having it rebuilt to see if I can get more charging. The battery is a couple of years old, but I generally get pretty good mileage out of batteries. Comments?

And on top of it, I'm still not sure the waterpump is out of the picture, problem wise.

Still won't start. I pulled the plugs and #3 & #4 smell like gas, but they're not wet.

Oh well, I'll play with ignition timing tomorrow. Since I have a MarelliPlex, it is really hit and miss when first starting an engine with it. No neat set of points to spark when just hitting the lobe.

[tomhenneka]

13.8V for the alternator is what is supposed to be. If you are dropping below 12.5V overnite, there is a drain somewhere.