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Working lead is easy, and likely you could use the metal from your existing terminal, + mabe a lead sinker to make up for material loss to make a new terminal.
You'd need a propane or MAPP gas torch, and something to melt it in that you can pour from. (a small disposable steel saucepan would work)
The mold is the hardest part as it has to (1) be accurate, (2) sustain the heat of the molten lead, and (3) be easily removable from the finished product.
#2 and #3 are the hard part of the whole process, especially given that the mold would also have to allow for the cable end to be present in there too so it can all merge together into one sexy unit.
Unless you're going for concours, I'd suggest one of the soft steel or copper terminals that has the provision to solder the end of the cable in rather than any sort of pinching, wing nutting, or clamping affair. (and if you are going concours, I'd do the solder on anyway, because judging on battery terminal correctness is really kinda anal in the grander scheme of things. Like a factory mech or authorized dealership repair shop would strip out a whole cable just to fix/change/replace the end. Riiiiiight.......)
With that type you simply melt off the old lead terminal (put a cookie sheet under things to catch the drips-n-spatter), clean and tin the end of the cable like you would any soldered electrical connection, then stuff it into the terminal receptical, heat and flood with more solder yet.
When it cools, clean off any excess solder and flux residue with a wire toothbrush and mabe give it a spritz of clear or colored spraypaint to seal against oxidation, or dope it with liquid electric tape or contact grease (again to seal against oxidation) and shrink wrap the cable to terminal joint (don't forget to put the shrink wrap on the cable BEFORE fitting ther terminal, and slide it way back there---> on the thing so it doesn't shrink before you actually get to use it LOL) then hook it up and forget about it for somewhere around forever.
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