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Steve,
Thanks for the reply... When I got in this morning I put my foot on the brake pedal, started the car and it barely softened up. So I am thinking perhaps that the brake booster is on its way out. Is there any other way to "Test" the booster or service checks to perform? I would hate to buy a new one, go through all the "PAINFUL" troubles of installing it .. and have that not be the problem.
ALSO,
While this is unrelated to the brake issue, I didnt want to start another post since I would ask you this question any way.
For a while now, I had been posting about intermittent stalling problems. I checked the fuel lines for leaks (Even in the trunk). I jumped the fuel pump relay and the car started normally. Full tank, empty tank didnt make any difference. So I am pretty sure that the issue is not in the tank or fuel delivery.
In the intervening weeks, I have been giving serious consideration to the idle control valve since on occasion the car's idle will "Race".
If I take the car on LONG drives I will have problem free driving for several weeks. However I have noticed that if I just use the car locally (4 mile drives or less) for several days I will start to have this low idle/stalling problem.
Last night I went out to run some errands after work and decided to take the 164 since the spider was already under cover. When I got back home, pulling into the driveway the car started to idle poorly and "Tried" to stall a few times but never did.
I went under the hood, disconnected the Idle control valve to see if there was any change. Simply put the car ran just the same with the ICV disconnected as with it connected.
HOWEVER, with the ICV connected and the Throttle position switch disconnected the idle raised to 1100 where it was previously around 500-600-ish. The idle was so low as not to even register on the gauge.
Plugging back in the TPS caused the idle to again drop. When I turned off the car and checked the switch for the signature "Click"... everything looked good. Within 1-2mm the switch clicked as I moved the throttle by hand.
Is there any way to test the TPS or ICV to see which is the culprit.. Do you think in your experience that I am on the right track? I mean the car at speed runs well, gives me little problems after long distance drives.
The only reason I think this may also be the ICV is because as I thought about it, this problem started just after I changed the spark plugs and had to remove the ICV to get my "Non Factory" tool back behind the rear bank.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Cheers
Martin.
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