There was a thread or two here about replacing the rubber VVT mounting. I can't find it right quick but, IIRC, there are two methods described. One is to use a piece of rubber hose glued in place to replicate the (NLA?) item. The other was a custon made threaded (brass? piece. Our '84 Spider has the earlier centrifugal activated VVT so I didn't save the info. But I know it's in here somewhere...

You could delete the VVT and just leave the camshaft advanced. You might have problems if you need to pass an emissions test. And it might not idle well.

 

VVT bushing repair with a specialized foam tape by John M

VVT bushing repair using a brass bushing manufactured by Duke58

VVT bushing repair using a piece of radiator hose by MrT

 

Slash: Great links. Those should be in the Technical FAQ Digest.

I am still intrigued with replacing the cam. I seem to recall a 10.5 mm lift in the newest Centerline catalog that is supposed to provide decent idle. IAP sells an intake cam # 92645 for the 82-89 L-Jets, but it appears to use the VVT to advance the timing another 4 deg. Has anyone used this cam? And where can one find new cam sprockets, anyways?

 

Slash: Great links. Those should be in the Technical FAQ Digest.

Yes, indeed it should... And now it is!

 

An complicated ugly wart on my engine...

I happily eliminated my VVT altogether & use stock Spica-type cams from the mid-late seventies--105200320000 same numbers as yours, I think, but different lobe angles. Got them from eBay and folks on this BB for relatively little money. Using the info on Centerline's site I've timed them both to 102 degrees. Like my skull, the idle is a bit lumpy but I don't care--makes me grin when RPMs get north of 4K. I could probably fiddle with my overlap to get a smoother idle but I don't see a need--no smog tests here. Never seen "new" cam sprockets advertised, though I might have one or two spares at home in the garage. As far as cam-experts Alfar7 on this BB is a wealth of knowledge regarding cam specs.

 

VVT or No VVT

DEEP BREATH...............

Old cam designs, shouldn`t be used with VVT for performance applications. They were used for emmisions only. By "old" designs I am refering to all previously mentioned in this thread, unfortunately. If they want to dispute the point, they can post the full profile.

These cams all have far too much early duration for FI application, although I use Late advancing VVT for carb applications with high early duration performance cams to get usable torque before the VVT advances the cam at +- 3000 RPM or so so that the race motor is not "ball-less" when the clutch is released. Torque is everything with all motors and never forget that!

The VVTs can be modified to reduce total amount of advance. Centrifugal VVTs can be modified to advance mechanically at RPM specified, and the Electronic units triggered to advance when wanted, so they are a positive thing.
The negative thing is knowing how to time and check the piston to valve clearance when installing the VVT controlled large lobe cams. I developed a proceedure for my customers to use setting up my cams.
If you have bought C&B, Centerline, I A, or some other cam feel free to not ask for my set up data Use theirs Which is to set at stock settings! Tells you how much cam you got!

 

So Alfar7, (not trying to highjack Andy303's thread)...I guess what I'd like to know is what new-design cams to use for spirited street/maybe autocross driving without VVT?

 

Richard, to follow on your advice above, what intake cam profile would you suggest for an engine with a VVT, L-Jet induction, and factory exhaust cam?

Would you suggest a different cam if the engine had some head work done and had a freer-flowing exhaust system?

Thanks!

 

FWIW I made the following inquiry of Centerline yesterday:
" I am wondering if the Euro+ camshaft that you show in the latest
catalog (10.5 mm lift) might be suitable for use in an L-jet, but without
the VVT mechanism. What are the specs on this cam?"

They responded this morning:
"Andy,
Our experience with eliminating the VVT mechanism has been very negative, so
I would not recommend this.

Joe
Centerline Products
Alfa Romeo Parts & Accessories
(888) 750-ALFA"

 

Four years and 60K+ miles on the car with the brass bushing- it still works. No muss, no fuss.

Duke

 

Duke,

Do you have any more of these available? How much do you want for one?

 

I have three more. PM me for details. $20/each plus shipping.

Duke

 

I don't see what would possibly be gained by removing a properly functioning VVT? If anything it allows you to use bigger cams than you otherwise would be able to without sacrificing low end torque, idle quailty and emmisions. If anything, I think would add one to the other cam like Murry did. Best of both worlds isn't it?

 

Count me in. I sent you a PM.

BTW, what is the correct clearance of the plunger to push rod?

 

...what is the correct clearance of the plunger to push rod?

Info is in the Spider L-jet diagnosis page. See step 2.3

 

Brings back memories

Ohh the VVT's here's a video of mine being dialed in on the dyno. What Bob (the tuner) was saying about riching up the mixture on this run was to allowing for the extra air that would be flowing in when the cam was advance. This was just one of many runs. The dyno time could go on forever testing different advances at different rpm's.

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Alfa parts exchange makes a threaded bushing to press into the aluminum hsg to screw the solinoid into.My solinoid was flopping around in the engine compartment.I just ordered the threaded bushing today.Centerline has the whole new aluminum hsg threader for $100.The threaded bushing bushing is onlt $40.00

 

I eliminated the VVT on my Bosch Spider and went with 11mm lift cams from International. Cold idle is not perfect, however once warm it’s not noticeable. Pulls like a train!