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I was very interested in utilizing soft spring rates instead of the weld-it-stiff approach of roll-camber control as I used to flog my car on bumpy back roads, as well as daily drive it, as well as take it to competitive events.
On a bumpy surface, obviously, the soft spring approach will be best, as you can maintain contact with the road (and not destroy your car, hopefully).
On a wet road, softer is usually better, although the importance of dropped spindles is probably less here, part of the reason for installing them was to induce camber gain, but when there's 50% as much grip, the car rolls less, requiring less camber gain, which then negates most of the reason for the dropped spindles. The roll center is better, true, but with less body roll due to less grip, there isn't as much need to fix the roll center that drops further and further as the A-arm compresses.
Since going through the process of participating in this lengthy discussion, I learned a lot. I also learned that I was wasting my time. After installing the dropped spindles, it helped the handling a good amount (worth my purchase price of $180 and some time to install), but I never saw staggering amounts of grip until I adapted front coilovers (RSR actually) and tried to match the spring rates in the rear with some custom springs. Even with the dropped spindles and huge sway bars and torsion bars, I was still rolling like a pig on tight turns. While the camber gain was fine, the center of gravity would shift so far onto the outside wheels, it would overload them and I would lose grip prematurely. After increasing the spring rates 2-3X over my old setup ( and 4-6X over stock!) I was finally happy.
These cars are really narrow. Unless you have custom control arms made and a widebody, they will always be limited by that fact. Might as well do the best you can, for me it was combining dropped spindles and RSR coilovers (not a bolt on, mind you!)
PS, RSR coilovers are expensive, esp. with the exchange rate right now. RSR coilovers have a very acceptable ride quality on cracked surfaces, but for a track car, it's definitely not necessary. You can make your own coilovers for a fraction of the cost. I only think the materials, valving of the shocks, and the workmanship is better on an RSR kit than what you can do on your own.
Article number 1: This is the hot ticket. Custom wide tubular A-arms that fix the geometry right off the bat by locating at the chassis higher vertically, being, what, half the weight, and are longer, so in compression, fewer that driver can utilize a horizontal LCA, and not one that gets bent upwards like mine does.
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1987 Milano Platinum - check for many new items. [B][COLOR="Red"][URL="http://alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?t=42980"]PARTING OUT[/URL][/COLOR][/B]
1989 Verde - Harsh shocks and SS rears, 27mm torsion bars, stainless lines, pads, 16X7.5 rims, 4.10 rebuilt platinum tranny, poly bushes, and RSR 28mm front and 25.4mm adjustable sways!
1984 GTV-6 - 80K miles
Last edited by Grant; 07-24-2008 at 07:15 AM.
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