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:2cents: from the peanut gallery:
The things certainly will give you a much better idea of what's going on, and is a lot more accurate (and less time consuming) that doing a bunch of plug chops.
The 'usual' pattern of lights in the gauges is the lean side is form 15:1 down, the center section (also the chunk with the most lights) is the stoich range of roughly 14.7:1 while the rich end of the spectrum starts at about 13:1 and goes to around 11:1 - 10:1.
Of course with narrowband, all that you'll see is voltage #'s rather than ratio #'s, but those voltages translate fairly well to the LED display.
If you go wideband, most all will spit out an actual A/F ratio # on the display so you can get a much better idea of wha's going on. (IIRC, 12.5:1 is supposed to be the sweet spot to aim for AFA performance is concerned)
Regardless of what setup you get, it's worthwhile to spend another few $$ and get a 3 or 4 wire O2 sensor as for (1) they don't cool off while idling, which means you can actually tune the idle mix to avoid over fat or over lean conditions there, and (2) they 'come online' faster than the single wire jobs especially if headers are involved, (under a minute with heated) and in the case of the 4 wire, you have a specific and well secured ground for the sensor as opposed to relying on the sensor body and the exhaust pipes (and thier rubber hangers...) to keep a good circut.
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