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Old 04-24-2008, 09:20 PM
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gprocket gprocket is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Grosse Pointe, MI
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That's more like it!

Got the parts in and installed the head. All timed up and she pretty quickly fired up. Best of all... no bent valves! Nice and quiet!

I finally found the root cause for the original belt slip - the mechanical tensioner. Nothing looked out of whack (springs were fine, etc) but when we went to tighten the belt the tensioner it went to it's limit and still the belt had too much slack. I watched as the rear pulley almost slipped back while we were rotating the motor by hand. Pulled another tensioner out of my seemingly endless supply of spares and that did the trick. It wound up just like the TSB video shows and the belt is nice and tight without being anywhere near the limit.

So we've got the radiator to put back in, the strut and a few odds and ends and we should be on the road.

One oddity: In the beginning we checked compression and the front head was reading 200 PSI across the board (the rear reading zero indicating damage). This time I checked compression on the rebuilt rear head and was disappointed to see 150 - 160 PSI. Then I went back to the front heads and they too were reading 150-160 PSI. Now nothing was touched with the front head so I've got to believe that it's a false reading. And that being the case and with the rears reading the same as the fronts I am of the opinion that they are in fact running around 200 PSI. This is my rationalization for not tearing the head off again. The only thing I can think of is that the gauge is off or the battery was sufficiently drained that I wasn't spinning fast enough to get a decent reading. BTW, do you take compression at WOT as we do with the Nord motors?
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Last edited by gprocket; 04-24-2008 at 09:22 PM.
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