[Roadtrip]

Self Test for SPICA Injected Alfa Owners:

1. T F SPICA Injection pumps are pressure lubricated with engine oil.

2. T F SPICA Injection pumps do not require any preventative maintenance other than changing the dedicated oil filter every 12,000 miles.

3. T F SPICA Injection pumps do not suffer from internal corrosion problems because they are constantly bathed in clean oil .

4. T F SPICA Injection pumps have oil filters because they require more fine filtration than the normal engine filter can supply

5. T F What filter? I didn’t know my car had a separate oil filter for the injection pump.

6. T F I’d rather not take the 60 minutes a year to maintain my injection pump. I’d rather spend $750 on a rebuild than maintain my pump for the long haul.

Answers:

1. Trick question . . . . . PARTS of the injection pump ARE pressure lubricated. There are two sections to the injection pump. The Pump Section and the Logic Section are physically segregated. The Pump Section is pressure lubricated by the regular engine oil system, however, the Logic Section IS NOT. In pre-75 models (T255/1) and earlier models, the Logic Section relies on oil directly added to the Logic Section. It’s splash/bath lubrication system. 1975 and later models have a passageway that allow a slight bit of non-pressurized oil to ooze into the Logic System (but not much). In all models there is an overflow port in the logic section that allows excess oil to gravity drain back into the engine oil sump.

2. Another trick question . . . . . . . Theoretically, yes, according to the Alfa Owner’s Manual . . . only the oil filter. HOWEVER, the Alfa manual assumes you are using Alfa mechanics to maintain your pump. You will find in the book that they warn against ANY tampering or opening of an injection pump. Thirty years later, however, very few Alfa’s are really maintained by factory-trained technicians. I would say the vast majority of owners do a good bit of their own maintenance, either out of love or the lack of an experienced local Alfa mechanic. That said, IMHO it is important that your injection pump be given a fresh change of oil every year or so, especially on pre-75 cars. Even on later models, the oil can stagnate in the logic section and harbor moisture and acids that can cause corrosion of logic section parts. One popular item for rusting and failure in poorly maintained pumps is the internal compensator link retaining spring . . . . a typical example of a $5 part that when it rusts apart will instantly disable the injection pump.

3. FALSE. See question 2. This is especially true of engines that are not operated regularly and for long enough to allow the already “cool running” injection pump to burn out any existing condensation and moisture. If you drive your car to work every for a half-hour each way, you probably don’t have much to worry about. But if it’s just a short haul or weekend driver, you do need to be concerned.

4. FALSE. The reason the small oil filter is in the injection pump base is that the oil passage that the pump draws its oil pressure from is direct from the oil pump and prior to the main oil filter. So, the injection pump is receiving unfiltered engine oil directly from the sump.

5. If you answered TRUE, you are in desperate need of a tech manual or an experienced Alfa mechanic to do you oil changes.

6. If you’ve got that much money, send me some!


HOW TO CHECK THE LEVEL OF OIL IN THE LOGIC SECTION:

1. Remove the three screws holding in the Barometric Compensator (the triangular plate on top of pump. On a 74 and earlier model, note how the detent spring for the temperature lever is positioned. 75 and on don't have the lever.

2. Carefully lift up the BC out of its cavity. The BC consists of a flexible bellows that expands and contracts with atmospheric pressure. You can puncure it if your not careful. The BC is not attached to anything inside the pump. It merely provides a calibration "stop" for the compensator link. DO NOT MOVE THE THROTTLE WHILE THE BC IS OUT OF THE PUMP BODY. Be careful with the BC, it's somewhat fragile. Place it in a protective tray or box on soft cloth. Guard it from damage.

3. Look down into the cavity of the pump. You should see some oil in there. A large syringe, such as those you can buy at Walmart to measure 2 cycle engine oil makes a good tool to suck out the old oil. Use a thin enough hose to fish down into the bottom of the pump and suck out the old oil. It helps the suction process if the oil is warm. Fill the cavity with about a half pint of clean engine oil. There is an overflow drain inside the pump that will allow excess oil to drain back into the sump, so you don't have to worry about overfilling.

4. Carefully replace the BC and snug up the screws.

5. Smell the old oil you removed from the logic section. If it smells like gasoline, you may have a worn FI pump that is allowing fuel past the pump plungers.