Alfa 2000 Touring long restoration - Page 9 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

  #121 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2012, 04:07 PM
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i just realised that that part is the bar that goes underneath the bonnet to hold the sound proofing. am i right? of course it should be straight.
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  #122 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2012, 08:58 PM
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The piece under the bonnet "in US called the hood" has two bends in it so that it forced the sound proofing up against the metal. But basically it is straight. Might be that piece. How did yours get so bent? I hope the hood was not bent as bad.
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[B]JAY NUXOLL [/B][EMAIL="jay@alfanut.com"], seriously Alfa diseased and ancient OLD Two Liter Lover, put together Seattle area's Northwest Alfa Romeo Club in 1965, and still feebly tries to tend a teeny sacred flame to his serpent mistress in the [B]ALFA G'RAJ MAHAL[/B], a home garage temple with more Alfa cars and parts than he dare list because of the disapproval of his shamed and chagrined family. (425) 641-2600.
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  #123 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2012, 12:54 AM
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no idea how it got so bent. the problem is i already forgot where i put it since i had discarded it!!
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  #124 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2012, 07:12 AM
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Hi All, restoration nearing the end, or so i wish.
would like to ask from where to get the clips, three different types, that hold the side chrome (front mudguard, door/sill, rear mudguard). i have seen loads of cars with some of these missing. luckily i still have mine.

earliest news appreciated,
hopefully tomorrow, the windscreen would be next to be put in place.
was looking for a hood and have two offers at the moment, one from OKP in Germany but they cannot supply a sample of the fabric and the other from AFRA, sample supplied but slightly more expensive. next on the buy list would be the pirelli cinturato.
regards
charles
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  #125 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2012, 08:56 AM
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Smile Make them!!!!

Charles, So great that you are getting to the fine details. As to those chrome attachment devices, those little pieces are usually so rusted that they break on taking the chromes off and have to be remade every time. Easy to do. Start with a flat stock and small diameter threaded stock (hard for me to give good measurements in metric) to create a small flat plate just big enough to fit into the widened spot on the chrome piece, and not so wide that it cannot be slid forward and backward. Put a hole in the center of it and use the threaded small diameter stock to put into the hole and weld or solder onto the flat piece itself so those threaded pieces won't come loose when you tighten the nuts on the other ends. The three under the door get bolted on the inside of the lip. The front and the rear use a long piece of threaded stock bent to face toward the wheel wells so that the fastening nut is actually tightened under the inside lip of the wheel wells front and aft. On the smaller horizontal piece above the "hash marks" (as I call them) on both sides, the rear bolt (the one in front of the door) can be reached through the bodywork from inside, but the front must still use the longer "nut in the wheel well" procedure. I do not myself like the chrome strips on the door and behind it as is the common scheme on the "European version" two liter, and never use them. But if you do, the door is assessable on the inside and the piece behind the door is done the same way as the one in front -- a shorter piece tightened through the body from inside and the piece tightened under the rear fender lip. I hope my description helps, but I since I hope to be installing my own chrome pieces this week end and I will try to take some metric measurements for the pieces and send some pictures. NOT rocket science! Jay
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[B]JAY NUXOLL [/B][EMAIL="jay@alfanut.com"], seriously Alfa diseased and ancient OLD Two Liter Lover, put together Seattle area's Northwest Alfa Romeo Club in 1965, and still feebly tries to tend a teeny sacred flame to his serpent mistress in the [B]ALFA G'RAJ MAHAL[/B], a home garage temple with more Alfa cars and parts than he dare list because of the disapproval of his shamed and chagrined family. (425) 641-2600.
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  #126 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2012, 11:13 PM
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thanks Jay. slightly complicated for me but i know that there are bent screws, still have those, but it seems the holes are blocked now. what i have decided to do now it to have the simple ones as you explained, with the thin thread, and have spring ones for the rest where i cannot see the thread. a friend, same guy who rebuilt my petrol tank should be able to do these. unfortunately, we overdid the holes and we have 17 on each side now instead of 12 or 14 that there are supposed to be.

on another subject, a problem came back to haunt me after 15 years. i started the engine yesterday and it seemed to work fine the first few minutes. when i restarted it a couple of hours later, only two cylinders were working. if i heard rightly, the mechanic said that there was fuel in cylinders 2 and 3. anyone has had a similar problem? i understand that the solex carbs are not the easiest carbs to have. i remember that 15 years ago, the car would not run well. was thinkiing with a completely clean petrol tank, clean carbs, redone engine, i would have solved this problem.
thanks to all
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  #127 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2012, 11:24 AM
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If you have not already purchased your convertible top fabric material, I would strongly recommend the Stayfast material. The material holds up very well and looks great; even after 28 years on the (garaged) Duetto it still looks like new. It makes me wish that I had done a better job of installing the top back then.

I have noticed that with all Alfa's they like to be started and run. The early spica fuel injected engines (mine were 2 x '74's and a '75) would start once fine but if only run a few minutes the thermostatic actuator would get confused and then the engine would not want to start. Hopefully your plugs were just fouled with fuel and it will be easy to replace them or clean them and try again.

I found two strange trim attachment bolts in the Alfa garage the other day. I am not sure where they go or what they came from perhaps this is what Jay is describing?

Last edited by IRONBLOCK; 10-22-2012 at 12:01 PM.
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  #128 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2012, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IRONBLOCK View Post
I found two strange trim attachment bolts in the Alfa garage the other day. I am not sure where they go or what they came from perhaps this is what Jay is describing?
These are North American aftermarket bolts, probably 3/8 inch in size with 10-24 thread, as shown on page 133 of the Restoration Specialties PDF catalog (7.4 MB PDF download here), which are available from many suppliers of generic auto parts.
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  #129 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2012, 10:50 PM
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Be a delay

Didn't get to work on my spider last Saturday whatever except for tires. Spent all day redoing wheel brake cylinders on the new two liter sprint. Next weekend looks good. I did run down a couple good pieces I had saved to duplicate. For those who wonder what we are talking about, there is an old thread in which Tubut was able to put in the parts book page for mouldings for two liter cars. We are talking about the pieces to fasten the side mouldings below the door. To do the job takes parts that can be made easier than found. In fact I doubt there are any of the following left anywhere unused: 102.04.59.015 (which is the small plate with the long threaded piece that holds the chrome in the front (or back) by fastening inside the wheel well, or the other two 102.04.59.015 (either 01 or 02) which hold directly through the surface of the car body.

In a previous thread Tubut himself provided us a bit of the two liter parts book giving us those numbers. More specific photos of the actual items and the manufactured ones next Monday -- Promise. Jay
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[B]JAY NUXOLL [/B][EMAIL="jay@alfanut.com"], seriously Alfa diseased and ancient OLD Two Liter Lover, put together Seattle area's Northwest Alfa Romeo Club in 1965, and still feebly tries to tend a teeny sacred flame to his serpent mistress in the [B]ALFA G'RAJ MAHAL[/B], a home garage temple with more Alfa cars and parts than he dare list because of the disapproval of his shamed and chagrined family. (425) 641-2600.
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  #130 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2012, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tubut View Post
These are North American aftermarket bolts, probably 3/8 inch in size with 10-24 thread, as shown on page 133 of the Restoration Specialties PDF catalog (7.4 MB PDF download here), which are available from many suppliers of generic auto parts.
Nice call Tubut! That is an impressive catalog of fasteners and mouldings. The two fasteners that I have look a lot like 4455J ($1.75 each). I thought only the Italians would come up with such a complicated spring loaded trim holder...oh well perhaps not.
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  #131 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2012, 08:55 AM
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I purchased two bags of spring-clip holders for the side moulding on my 10204 from TST Rettburg. They look vaguely like the bottom item notated as 102.04.59.015/02, and were advertised for this application. I got the impression they had more in stock.

They fit perfectly. However, they require that the side of your car be perfectly flat, as they do not provide much hold-down force on the stainless trim strip. My car has a slight curvature, probably due to age and imperfect repairs. The hold-down force also requires the hole to be no more than a certain diameter, and if it is any smaller, it becomes very difficult to press the spring clip into place.

I ended up using the threaded-rod approach discussed at length by Jay. It is inelegant to drill a hole through to the wheel well, but this is better than finding out your now-mangled trim strip is back up the road a ways. My short trim strips above the shark-gills are mostly held on by the spring-clips, however. So far, no problems with these, but as they don't have the screws and nuts found mid-span on the long strips, they get inspected for signs of looseness periodically.
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Past Alfas...
59 102 Touring (first Alfa $500 running)
65 Sprint GT (2nd Alfa, $500 daily driver)
102 Sprint (never did anything with it, but wish I had)
74 Berlina (first new car - now certainly rusted into oblivion)
61 Giulietta Spider G-Prod Race Car (where is it now?)
84 Spider Veloce (rarely drove it, so sold it)
86 Quadrifoglio (Dull car - no more 115s for me)

Current Alfas
59 102 Touring Roadster - restoration complete, enough Alfa for any rational man. Or irrational, for that matter
1971 Alfa Montreal (see above comment regarding rationality)

And past...
Two 1946 Stampe SV4C (c/n 294 "Rocinante" - wife's favorite airplane. RIP), and c/n 235 "La Bon Temps Femme" (gone to a new home, but never forgotten)
Zlin 50LA (+9 -6 gees, titanium spar, 1200 lbs, 260HP rumored to now be in Brazil)
1946 Luscombe 8A
Starduster Too (recently spotted at the Nevada City, CA airport - over 20 years and an entire continent separating it from our stewardship in Binghamton, NY)
1955 Cessna 170B (wife taught me to fly tailwheel in this)

And present...
64 Mooney M20E ("Rambo". My faithful steed for over 30 years) Nearly 50 years old, and just returned from a trip to Argentina in him
Newest in the fleet
1967 Piper Super Cub on Wipline amphibious floats (a true "all terrain vehicle")
2010 Triumph Thunderbird


You can snap roll an Alfa only one time...
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  #132 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2012, 11:34 PM
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Hi All,

my car is now on the road but still not happy with the carbs. they will be off again soon i suspect. it is no longer flooding but is running too rich. i am also not happy with the front springs but will see to this after the carbs. a noise in the gearbox is also another issue.

i will try to use it today, it needs running in any way. you can see some pics of it on my facebook page https://www.facebook.com/#!/charles.a.zahra

i still need to buy the fabric hood and was thinking of OKP. has anyone bought their hoods?

best regards
charles
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  #133 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2012, 08:38 PM
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If you still have solex phh44 carbs.

Charles, sometimes the float valves get plugged and the gas just keeps coming in to overflow the float bowl. In fact, Solex Phh44's are supposed to have a plastic tube running from the bottom overflow spot to pieces held onto the edge of the block above the oil pan by bolts holding the oil pan on. But when I still used solex carbs I also had to work on them when the car ran too rich. I would look first to the float levels and the cut off valves for the floats. When you look down on the carbs from the top you can see where the gas goes into each of the two float chambers from the top. That location on each carb is held onto the rest of the carburetor by two countersunk screws on the engine side of the top and by two square headed screws on the to of the side next to the cold air box. Take out all eight screws and you can lift the top of the carburetors out together with their floats attached. There is enough flexible gas line attached. Check to see there is no gunk in the bowls -- only gasoline. But you should also see on the top side the float valves which cut off the gas when the float is at the top. The floats come off by pushing a pin. (1) shake each float to be certain it has no gas in it. A float with gas sinks and the float valve never gets cut off. Then (2) use a 14 mm wrench to unscrew the float valve and suck through to check to see that neither is plugged with residue that keeps them from closing. Sometimes there is something in there that blocks the needle from seating to shut the gas off. (3) carefully reassemble Be sure that the float will not be impeded so that it can go up to shut off the valve. The float arm should be bent very slightly from straight across so that the float goes down into the bowl but the float side itself is perpendicular to the top of float bowl so it shuts off before the gas gets to the top of the bowl. Doing all these steps usually stops the flooding and the too rich syndrome. Quite common with cars or carbs that have been sitting and "stuff" gets into the gas, or rebuilt without referral to manuals as to the bending of the float arms. Usually its dirt in the float valve itself. How are your filters? Jay
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[B]JAY NUXOLL [/B][EMAIL="jay@alfanut.com"], seriously Alfa diseased and ancient OLD Two Liter Lover, put together Seattle area's Northwest Alfa Romeo Club in 1965, and still feebly tries to tend a teeny sacred flame to his serpent mistress in the [B]ALFA G'RAJ MAHAL[/B], a home garage temple with more Alfa cars and parts than he dare list because of the disapproval of his shamed and chagrined family. (425) 641-2600.
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  #134 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2012, 11:43 PM
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thanks Jay, i will pass on this information to the mechanic.

wanted to ask from where i can get an original jack for this car as i am running around without one. need to put an ordinary one for the moment.
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Old 10-21-2012, 06:44 PM
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My father with his MGB resently had a running rich issue and the cause was the pin that the float pivots on had warn grooves in it and thus the float was not pivoting correctly. Who would think these pins would ever wear out?

Just goes to show with servicing old cars you have to keep your eyes open!
Pete
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