2000T new project - Page 3 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #31 of 225 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 07:54 AM
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Serge,

Congratulations! One thing I would offer ....... when you negotiate with your coachbuilder, please check ALL the floor panels, front, central and spare-tyre/boot area. They are often rusted. If you are taking out seats, carpets etc., it may pay to renew those panels, pretty thin steel, even when new. Also, the 'rocker' panels under each door.

Bonne Chance, cordialement, Des.
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post #32 of 225 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PS70 View Post
Hello everybody !
The car arrive this morning. The work should start...
Serge.
Serge,
Your Touring Roadster is beautiful.
It looks like the car just needs a good washing, wax and "SPORT" decal removal.

Mark
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post #33 of 225 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
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Hi everybody,

I which to everybody an happy new year 2016 .

Some news :

First of all the answer regarding the N of the car :

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The pictures are deceiving.
The underbody are attacked.
The vertical posts, where are fixed door hinges, are eaten at their base.

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The body work will be very important.

First step will be to dismount all the car. I start by the engine that is now outside the car.

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I won't do anything on the car before few weeks, the time for me to finalize the 2600 project.

More picture soon.

Serge.
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post #34 of 225 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 12:25 PM
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Serge,

Bienvenue au monde des Alfas nous aimons encore. Bon, et pas si bon! I would be surprised if those underside members did NOT look like that! Very common.

Your chassis number is stamped into the firewall at the back of the engine compartment, behind the distributor and just right of the coil. The engine number is stamped high on the front-left of the crankcase (just below the head). Hopefully they match and you will have added value.

Marchons, marchons....Des.
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post #35 of 225 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you Des,

Yes they match
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post #36 of 225 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 01:54 PM
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Great, it will be a pleasure to look up the part numbers, and relevant drawing, of any parts you need. My catalogue is comprehensive.
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post #37 of 225 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 07:34 AM Thread Starter
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Hi everybody,

I didn't work yet on this project.

But I can already find missing parts.

The glass of the left small front light is broken :

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Do you know where I can find some ?

Serge.
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post #38 of 225 (permalink) Old 03-29-2016, 07:16 AM
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Yes, I have them.

Alfa Sapiens
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post #39 of 225 (permalink) Old 03-29-2016, 08:59 AM
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I need chrome turn housings in restorable condition, my glass is good, but rest is too pitted to bring back
I also need tail light housings

any kicking around that can be resurected?



Peter

Peter Inshaw
59 Touring Spider "AlfaOle", 63 Spider, 67 GTV, 91 Spider
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post #40 of 225 (permalink) Old 03-29-2016, 11:24 AM
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Peter
I have the R/L front signal housings .. will look for tail light assemblies.

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post #41 of 225 (permalink) Old 08-06-2016, 11:49 PM Thread Starter
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Hi everybody,

I finally reopens this post.

After the sale of the 2600 T motivation has struggled to return. I think after such a project, the mind needs to do a brake .

First of all, what are the specifications of this project:
Put the car in nine scrupulously respecting the original design side configuration but bringing some technical changes to bring performance, comfort and reliability.

Aesthetic side , the car will Grigio Biacca with red interior.
Something like the picture of Franco above.

Performance side:
As I want to keep this car as long as life will allow me, I want to boost up the engine (ideally have the same performance as in 2600 ...). I already know I will adapt Weber in place of the Solex. Any suggestions on engine performance are welcome.

Listed Security:
I'll adapt disc brakes at the front instead of drums. I've dug up a front end 2600 which was equipped with disc brakes.
I'll see if I can mount seat belts.
It is possible that I get LED headlights more powerful, to see.

Comfort side:
I would make a tonneau cover, I like to protect the cabin when I park in a public parking.
I'll adapt a master vac for more efficiency of the brake pedal.
Finally, the seats will be slightly modified to improve lateral support.

Reliability side :
Weber (already mentioned)
The traditional 123 Ignition spark (if available for this model)
Fuel Filter King (FISPA whose replacement part are hard to find)

For the rest, everything will be refurbished. For example, ALL screws and washers will be changed, all parts of the axle will be powder coated, ...
The car is now in my little garage and I start to disassemble it :

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It is a hard work but I nearly finish.

Last edited by PS70; 08-07-2016 at 12:57 AM.
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post #42 of 225 (permalink) Old 08-07-2016, 07:03 AM
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Hello Serge,

I hope you find energy and momentum for your project. I agree -these cars find a spot in our hearts for life.

The engine performance is a relatively easy formula. You have probably read my posts on the 2300. In short, use the OKP manifold, 45 DCOE carbs, modified RJ cam shafts, and Pertronix ignition. I wouldn't bother with the 123. The manifold will need to be ported to match the 45mm carbs, and aftermarket air cleaners used. This formula produced about a 25% gain in power with no loss of low RPM torque.

Of course, if you can find a 2300, I'll have some more suggestions to obtain the best results. I believe a 2300 bottom with 2000 cylinder head would be a good choice.

I understand your interest in improving the brakes. However, the original brakes on my car work wonderfully. I do not feel unsafe with them at all. I think the main argument for disk brakes is to reduce fade during racing, which is not what the 2000 will be doing. Also, the pedal pressure is acceptable without boost. Maybe the boost is required only with disk brakes.

It was easy to mount seat belts. I have not tried to mount shoulder straps.

At the early stage, you might want to investigate the electric steering booster. I think one person has done this on a 2600. This could be the single best modification for improved driving pleasure.

Don P
Carson City, NV

Past Alfas...
59 102 Touring (first Alfa $500 running)
65 Sprint GT (2nd Alfa, $500 daily driver)
102 Sprint (never did anything with it, but wish I had)
74 Berlina (first new car - now certainly rusted into oblivion)
61 Giulietta Spider G-Prod Race Car (where is it now?)
84 Spider Veloce (rarely drove it, so sold it)
86 Quadrifoglio (Dull car - no more 115s for me)
1971 Montreal "The Full Monty". Fair winds and following seas

Current Alfas
59 102 Touring Roadster - restoration complete, enough Alfa for any rational man. Or irrational, for that matter
And past...
Two 1946 Stampe SV4C (c/n 294 "Rocinante" - wife's favorite airplane. RIP), and c/n 235 "La Bon Temps Femme" (gone to a new home, but never forgotten)
Zlin 50LA (+9 -6 gees, titanium spar, 1200 lbs, 260HP rumored to now be in Brazil)
1946 Luscombe 8A
Starduster Too (recently spotted at the Nevada City, CA airport - over 20 years and an entire continent separating it from our stewardship in Binghamton, NY)
1955 Cessna 170B (wife taught me to fly tailwheel in this)

And present...
64 Mooney M20E ("Rambo". My faithful steed for over 30 years) Nearly 50 years old, and just returned from a trip to Argentina in him
Newest in the fleet
1967 Piper Super Cub on Wipline amphibious floats (a true "all terrain vehicle")
2010 Triumph Thunderbird


You can snap roll an Alfa only one time...
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post #43 of 225 (permalink) Old 08-07-2016, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Don,

Thank you for your answer.

I have 2 engines so 2 cylinder head. I should be able to modify the shafts of one of these : What is a "modified RJ cam shafts" ?

Why do you think a 2300 bottom with 2000 cylinder head would be a good choice ?

For my point of view, front disc brake are much reliable. With the 2600 Touring I mange to have a very performing brake system. I assume I'll be able to perform that again.

Serge.
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post #44 of 225 (permalink) Old 08-07-2016, 08:09 AM
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Serge,

The 2300 bottom end offers the 2300cc capacity, of course. The combination of bore and stroke results in a more efficient piston top shape than the very tall 2000cc piston. There are several benefits of this, including less tendency to "rock", which should improve the cylinder wear characteristics. It should be easier to have pistons made to raise the compression from the original 9 to 1 to perhaps 9.5 or 10.

The 2300 head, however, uses the smaller valve tappets as found on 105 engines. The cam has a larger base circle than the 105, so building cams with a higher lift is limited by the diameter of the tappet. The 2000 cylinder head uses a much larger diameter tappet, so you have more options of cam lobe profiles.

Richard Jemmison has developed a wide range of cams to achieve the desired results in an Alfa engine. He is "RJ", and posts on the BB as "Alfar7". You would send a set of 2000 or 2300 cams to the company he uses for re-profiling the cams. If you choose to use this approach, we will talk some more before you make your final decisions.

The OKP manifold makes many things easier. 45DCOE carbs will allow the Venturi sizes that you will need. Careful matching of the manifold to the head and 45 carbs is necessary.

Since you are contemplating this route, I recommend finding valves that use a 9mm stem so you can use modern adjusting shims. This will also require different retainers, guides, etc.

It might make sense to see if RJ will do a complete cylinder head re-work for you, resulting in a better breathing head and completed manifold. I'm not certain he is available for this work, but it would save you a lot of time and cure many of the goals to a better performing engine.

Don P
Carson City, NV

Past Alfas...
59 102 Touring (first Alfa $500 running)
65 Sprint GT (2nd Alfa, $500 daily driver)
102 Sprint (never did anything with it, but wish I had)
74 Berlina (first new car - now certainly rusted into oblivion)
61 Giulietta Spider G-Prod Race Car (where is it now?)
84 Spider Veloce (rarely drove it, so sold it)
86 Quadrifoglio (Dull car - no more 115s for me)
1971 Montreal "The Full Monty". Fair winds and following seas

Current Alfas
59 102 Touring Roadster - restoration complete, enough Alfa for any rational man. Or irrational, for that matter
And past...
Two 1946 Stampe SV4C (c/n 294 "Rocinante" - wife's favorite airplane. RIP), and c/n 235 "La Bon Temps Femme" (gone to a new home, but never forgotten)
Zlin 50LA (+9 -6 gees, titanium spar, 1200 lbs, 260HP rumored to now be in Brazil)
1946 Luscombe 8A
Starduster Too (recently spotted at the Nevada City, CA airport - over 20 years and an entire continent separating it from our stewardship in Binghamton, NY)
1955 Cessna 170B (wife taught me to fly tailwheel in this)

And present...
64 Mooney M20E ("Rambo". My faithful steed for over 30 years) Nearly 50 years old, and just returned from a trip to Argentina in him
Newest in the fleet
1967 Piper Super Cub on Wipline amphibious floats (a true "all terrain vehicle")
2010 Triumph Thunderbird


You can snap roll an Alfa only one time...
DPeterson3 is online now  
post #45 of 225 (permalink) Old 08-14-2016, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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Hi everybody,

As I wanted to validate as soon as possible the front brake modification I have research the calipers (missing parts).

I ask all the usual Alfa dealers and prices were including between 1000 to 250 euros for one caliper.

As I already buy parts to Jaguar dealers when I was working on the 2600 project I investigate on this direction.
Good idea ! The jaguar Type E S3 had the same Girling system than the 2600.

Price from SNG Barratt is 161 euros. I call them at 15h00, I receive the parts next day at 9h30 !!! :

SNG Barratt - The Ultimate Jaguar Parts Specialist

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The calipers fit perfectly. The only difference with the 2600's is that the jag is equipped with ventilated brake disc. The disc thickness is expanded thanks to a brace. It will be easy to remove this parts.

So a good information for any 2600 owner that is looking for brand new front calipers : look type E S3 parts.

Serge.
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