Operation "save a sprint" - Page 5 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

  #61 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2010, 01:32 AM
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A few questions

Jay, Ruedi if you can help again

The crank and pistons are all now together, all clearances less than 2 thou

Which way round does the rear crankshaft oil seal fit

A, Flat/flush face inwards so you can see the internal spring from the outside?

B Flat/flush face outwards, internal spring inside

thanks

Ian

Last edited by Redmerlin; 05-06-2011 at 02:36 PM.
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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2010, 08:14 AM
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Ian, Rear Crankshaft oil seal fits Flat/flush face outwards, internal spring (and the lips) inside. The inside pressure in the crankcase spreads the lips and makes the seal tighter so the oil can't slip out. Can't help you on the specific 2600 stuff. Not like two liter engine at those two points. Jay
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[B]JAY NUXOLL [/B][EMAIL="jay@alfanut.com"], seriously Alfa diseased and ancient OLD Two Liter Lover, put together Seattle area's Northwest Alfa Romeo Club in 1965, and still feebly tries to tend a teeny sacred flame to his serpent mistress in the [B]ALFA G'RAJ MAHAL[/B], a home garage temple with more Alfa cars and parts than he dare list because of the disapproval of his shamed and chagrined family. (425) 641-2600.
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2010, 03:26 PM
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short engine complete

Slowly but surely - the short engine is now complete

I primed the oil pump using a tip from an old Alfaplus - I removed the oil temp sender and turned the pump backwards while filling through the sender hole.


Then rotating forward I have an even feed of oil through all the feeds to the cylinder head

As photo - oil flowing from roll pins on top face of block
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 09-07-2010, 02:15 PM
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engine build complete

Progress at last the engine build is now complete, as photos

Some detailing to do
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 09-07-2010, 02:19 PM
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Weber linkages

Has anyone got any photos of the Weber linkages? - I have done the best I can but I think I am missing a bracket for the bottom end of the return spring second photo
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 09-07-2010, 02:29 PM
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Hi Ian,

Here are some reference pics for you:

I noticed you have solid weber mounts - did you have these made or are they available? Any idea of cost?

Best,

John
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 09-07-2010, 03:48 PM
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That's interesting. I didn't think the Sprint used the same non-dimpled valve cover as the Sedan. Probably doesn't make any difference if you're using un-filtered Webers, but if you intend to run the snorkel over the top to the filter canister, you'll need the other cam cover, yes?

Don



Quote:
Originally Posted by Redmerlin View Post
Progress at last the engine build is now complete, as photos

Some detailing to do
__________________
Don P
Carson City, NV

Past Alfas...
59 102 Touring (first Alfa $500 running)
65 Sprint GT (2nd Alfa, $500 daily driver)
102 Sprint (never did anything with it, but wish I had)
74 Berlina (first new car - now certainly rusted into oblivion)
61 Giulietta Spider G-Prod Race Car (where is it now?)
84 Spider Veloce (rarely drove it, so sold it)
86 Quadrifoglio (Dull car - no more 115s for me)

Current Alfas
59 102 Touring Roadster - restoration complete, enough Alfa for any rational man. Or irrational, for that matter
1971 Alfa Montreal (see above comment regarding rationality)

And past...
Two 1946 Stampe SV4C (c/n 294 "Rocinante" - wife's favorite airplane. RIP), and c/n 235 "La Bon Temps Femme" (gone to a new home, but never forgotten)
Zlin 50LA (+9 -6 gees, titanium spar, 1200 lbs, 260HP rumored to now be in Brazil)
1946 Luscombe 8A
Starduster Too (recently spotted at the Nevada City, CA airport - over 20 years and an entire continent separating it from our stewardship in Binghamton, NY)
1955 Cessna 170B (wife taught me to fly tailwheel in this)

And present...
64 Mooney M20E ("Rambo". My faithful steed for over 30 years) Nearly 50 years old, and just returned from a trip to Argentina in him
Newest in the fleet
1967 Piper Super Cub on Wipline amphibious floats (a true "all terrain vehicle")
2010 Triumph Thunderbird


You can snap roll an Alfa only one time...
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 09-07-2010, 04:34 PM
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Don, it is a rare Berlina valve cover. A lot of people that converted to Webers are looking for them -- it's one of the rarest piece one can find for a 2600 (about as rare as a Weber manifold).
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Ruedi
'63 2600 Touring Spider (AR 191437, the car that started the 2000/2600 International Register, reassembly in progress)
ex-'65 2600 SZ (AR 856043, resto project)
Maintainer of a 2600 SZ register (not the Dutch one).

Last edited by tubut; 09-07-2010 at 04:41 PM.
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2010, 08:09 AM
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Hi all

Thanks for the comments. Fortunatley I am now lucky to be the custodian of a series of parts collected by Eric Harrison to build his view of the ultimate sprint. Included in the photos are a Weber manifold , Berlina cam cover and correct model Webers.The plan is to put them into the Sprint as a test bed and move onto my Spider if succesful.

The next box contains high lift cams, new rods, and GTA pistons - but at my current rate it could be a few years before I get to these. When funds permit these will be given to a real engine builder to create a top spec engine.

John, the solid carb mounts we discussed around a year ago - I don't know where these were sourced from but I can ask Eric.

N.B A condition of sale/my custodianship is that I cannot sell these parts to anyone else , so I could be involved in 2600's for a while.

cheers

Ian
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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 10-06-2010, 02:49 PM
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A vote for Hycote

The rebuild continues and the engine and box are waiting patiently to return home. The current job is rebuilding the dashboard so I have a working ignition.

I have taken the time to clean up the instrument binacle - helped by Hycote wrinkle paint. I know this has ben posted before but this produces a great finish as the photo below.

A couple of notes from an amateur sprayer

1. Hycote coats very quickly and heavily and it is easy to get runs /puddles. Its best to spray the binacle in a std black pait first to cover all surfaces , slots etc . Then use the hycote to paint large flat surfaces only with very light even coats iinitially.

2. Follow the instructions work at 25C plus - one light coat - 10 mins next coat after 4 hrs final heavy coat and the result is great.
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2010, 06:51 AM
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rear brakes drums

I've got as far as installing the rear brakes now . I can't find any reference to installing the rear drum brakes in any of the manuals I have - including cardisc.

I've seen some notes on Don's posts . Can anyone send me anything , copies of manuals etc To i.packer@btinternet.com

thanks
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2010, 07:41 AM
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Redmerlin,

I'm sure my blog was short of a lot of detail, but I finished the job recently enough that I could share more info if you need it. What specifics are you looking for?
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Don P
Carson City, NV

Past Alfas...
59 102 Touring (first Alfa $500 running)
65 Sprint GT (2nd Alfa, $500 daily driver)
102 Sprint (never did anything with it, but wish I had)
74 Berlina (first new car - now certainly rusted into oblivion)
61 Giulietta Spider G-Prod Race Car (where is it now?)
84 Spider Veloce (rarely drove it, so sold it)
86 Quadrifoglio (Dull car - no more 115s for me)

Current Alfas
59 102 Touring Roadster - restoration complete, enough Alfa for any rational man. Or irrational, for that matter
1971 Alfa Montreal (see above comment regarding rationality)

And past...
Two 1946 Stampe SV4C (c/n 294 "Rocinante" - wife's favorite airplane. RIP), and c/n 235 "La Bon Temps Femme" (gone to a new home, but never forgotten)
Zlin 50LA (+9 -6 gees, titanium spar, 1200 lbs, 260HP rumored to now be in Brazil)
1946 Luscombe 8A
Starduster Too (recently spotted at the Nevada City, CA airport - over 20 years and an entire continent separating it from our stewardship in Binghamton, NY)
1955 Cessna 170B (wife taught me to fly tailwheel in this)

And present...
64 Mooney M20E ("Rambo". My faithful steed for over 30 years) Nearly 50 years old, and just returned from a trip to Argentina in him
Newest in the fleet
1967 Piper Super Cub on Wipline amphibious floats (a true "all terrain vehicle")
2010 Triumph Thunderbird


You can snap roll an Alfa only one time...
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2010, 08:20 AM
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Rear drum brakes!!

You have said the magic words "drums". That means I give my 2 cents worth. Two liter has drums all around. Unfortunately I am in Phoenix and not home. I cannot get to my books to photocopy and send. But I can tell you that drum brakes are a "piece of cake". I assume that they are already off, but, if not, then by use of the square adjuster loosen the spread of the shoes (by turning cournterclockwise) and after taking out the screws holding the drums to the axle ends, remove the drums. You now must spread the shoes enough to take the top ends out of the ends of the cylinder pistons. Once you do that they almost fall out. I would suggest to you that with the logging truck width linings that you should not have to replace any pieces so far. BUT DON'T YOU HAVE PARTS IN YOUR STASH TO PUT ON A REAR DISK BRAKE SYSTEM? If you do, do it.

But perhaps you, just as I on my newly acquired two liter sprint, have decided to stick with rear drum brakes. They are much easier than the front drum brakes, but very very few 2600 have those.

Next step is to remove and take apart the girling rear cylinders. 11mm flare wrench best to remove the brake line. Just remove the cotter keys so you can take the pins out of the emergency brake cable ends. Notice how the cylinders are held onto the backing plate by double nuts. Location of the the cylinders is very greatly adjustble. When you reassemble be prepared to start with them loose so the shoes will adjust. I would not take apart the bottom spreader apparatus, but if I were anal retentive and wanted to put paint on it I would clean it in place and paint it with the tapered pieces removed and later cleaned and lightly oiled to put back in.

Cylinder is double pistoned. Get whichever side out that comes out easier, remove the spring and seal guides from between the pistons and then you can tap the harder bound one out with a wooden stick and a hammer. You will NOT have to resleeve or go to great extremes unless terribly pitted. I use find sandpaper to where it feels somewhat smooth, and then emery cloth to make it decent (twisting my finger). And the pistons themselves are steel (and the rubber pieces are the crucial matters , so I clean them until they are clear of gunk. Some pitting is permissable since, as I said, the rubber seals are the key.

Emergency brake part consists of Two pill shaped pieces between the rod to which the cables attach. When the cables are pulled these pills are forced to the side to spread the shoes. Clean out all dirt and oil very sparingly because the oil collects dirt and that prevents the pills from slipping back into the recess in the rod when the cable is released. Often these girling drum brakes need to have the rods tapped back from the inside to release the emergency when there is too much dirt. Maybe now there is some miracle lubricant, but I've not heard of it.

The rebuild kit is SP _ _ _ _ (1553, I think). I'll look it up immediately on getting home next Tuesday. I always have at least a couple rebuild kits on hand because I have so many cars. Seem to recall clutch number for slave (sp2029) and master (sp1974) but not the brakes.

USE ONLY LMA GIRLING BRAKE FLUID. Maybe some fellows have had good luck with silicone based alternatives, but the old stuff works best on old stuff. DO NOT USE PRESTONE or any American because it will eat the rubber).

I will be doing the same steps on my two liter sprint) and will watch your progress. Reassembly is also easy (except, perhaps, getting the springs back to the inside on the shoes and getting the ends of the shoes into the ends of the pistos. And only finally fully tighten up the double nutted cylinder holder after you have adjusted the brakes at the end.
O of er t
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[B]JAY NUXOLL [/B][EMAIL="jay@alfanut.com"], seriously Alfa diseased and ancient OLD Two Liter Lover, put together Seattle area's Northwest Alfa Romeo Club in 1965, and still feebly tries to tend a teeny sacred flame to his serpent mistress in the [B]ALFA G'RAJ MAHAL[/B], a home garage temple with more Alfa cars and parts than he dare list because of the disapproval of his shamed and chagrined family. (425) 641-2600.
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2010, 11:44 AM
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rear brakes

Jay/Don

Thanks for the advice on dismantling. I should have mentioned this was already done when I bought the car and alll the brake parts including rebuilt cylinders and shoes with new linings were supplied with the car.

What I need is a picture or two of how things go back together. If it is then a simple as squaring everything up by eye , putting the drum back on and adjusting - I can do this just the same as my old ford

Thanks again

Ian
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2010, 03:30 PM
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Ian,

As Jay notes, it is a simple system. You could probably do it by eye. I have two suspension sets, one early and one late. The one on my car is the early system, but I have a later rear end out in the shop that I have partially dismantled. They are a bit different, and I suspect the latter one is more like the 2600. If you get stuck, let me know and I can probably put my hands on the parts and take a photo of the way they go together.

About the only things I would add to Jay's notes are these:

I dismantled the adjusters and thoroughly cleaned them up due to some internal corrosion. they operate very nicely now.

I used a very thin layer of disc-brake grease on both the adjuster and emergency brake slider. I agree with Jay's caution about gathering dust, but decided that having them work for a little while and getting a periodic cleaning was better than not working at all very soon after reassembly. We'll see if my theory is right.

I had a fair amount of difficulty getting the drums back on. It requires that everything be left loose, including the cylinder and adjuster, and that the backing-screws that set the shoe alignment be fairly close. Once right, the drums slid on.

Not having the fancy factory tool to align the shoes, I used the method of coming out with the adjuster until the drums would stop, then fiddling with the alignment screw. If fiddling with the screw allowed the drum to turn again, then I would come out some more with the adjuster. Then alignment screw, and back again. With enough iterations you get a sense of when the shoes have aligned themselves.

If memory serves, the main springs are on the back side of the shoes, with their ends poking outward through the holes in the shoes.

Good luck,
__________________
Don P
Carson City, NV

Past Alfas...
59 102 Touring (first Alfa $500 running)
65 Sprint GT (2nd Alfa, $500 daily driver)
102 Sprint (never did anything with it, but wish I had)
74 Berlina (first new car - now certainly rusted into oblivion)
61 Giulietta Spider G-Prod Race Car (where is it now?)
84 Spider Veloce (rarely drove it, so sold it)
86 Quadrifoglio (Dull car - no more 115s for me)

Current Alfas
59 102 Touring Roadster - restoration complete, enough Alfa for any rational man. Or irrational, for that matter
1971 Alfa Montreal (see above comment regarding rationality)

And past...
Two 1946 Stampe SV4C (c/n 294 "Rocinante" - wife's favorite airplane. RIP), and c/n 235 "La Bon Temps Femme" (gone to a new home, but never forgotten)
Zlin 50LA (+9 -6 gees, titanium spar, 1200 lbs, 260HP rumored to now be in Brazil)
1946 Luscombe 8A
Starduster Too (recently spotted at the Nevada City, CA airport - over 20 years and an entire continent separating it from our stewardship in Binghamton, NY)
1955 Cessna 170B (wife taught me to fly tailwheel in this)

And present...
64 Mooney M20E ("Rambo". My faithful steed for over 30 years) Nearly 50 years old, and just returned from a trip to Argentina in him
Newest in the fleet
1967 Piper Super Cub on Wipline amphibious floats (a true "all terrain vehicle")
2010 Triumph Thunderbird


You can snap roll an Alfa only one time...
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