Operation "save a sprint" - Page 3 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

  #31 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2010, 06:38 AM
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didn't the writer of that article switch to selling toilet paper shortly after it was published?
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2010, 09:12 AM
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Thanks Ian,

I''m currently sorting out the details to put an FNM 2300 engine into my 102. The FNM originally used a modern diaphragm pressure plate rather than the spring-type that we are familiar with. The TO bearing for this is a flat-faced design, and I've gotten the right unit from Franco, as it is a longer collar than the one for the 102. The bearing is a bit scratchy, but probably usable. A new one would be more confidence inspiring. The assembly looks quite a bit like the one your picture, with the real question being how to remove the bearing and install a new one? I actually have the tools to do it, but was wondering if you had completed it and what were the results. I guess I'm left to blaze that trail.

Good luck with the Sprint. I briefly owned a 102 Sprint but never did anything with it, and it went back to it's previous owner, who later sold it to another mutual friend. I think it is nearing completion, if not already there.
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Carson City, NV

Past Alfas...
59 102 Touring (first Alfa $500 running)
65 Sprint GT (2nd Alfa, $500 daily driver)
102 Sprint (never did anything with it, but wish I had)
74 Berlina (first new car - now certainly rusted into oblivion)
61 Giulietta Spider G-Prod Race Car (where is it now?)
84 Spider Veloce (rarely drove it, so sold it)
86 Quadrifoglio (Dull car - no more 115s for me)

Current Alfas
59 102 Touring Roadster - restoration complete, enough Alfa for any rational man. Or irrational, for that matter
1971 Alfa Montreal (see above comment regarding rationality)

And past...
Two 1946 Stampe SV4C (c/n 294 "Rocinante" - wife's favorite airplane. RIP), and c/n 235 "La Bon Temps Femme" (gone to a new home, but never forgotten)
Zlin 50LA (+9 -6 gees, titanium spar, 1200 lbs, 260HP rumored to now be in Brazil)
1946 Luscombe 8A
Starduster Too (recently spotted at the Nevada City, CA airport - over 20 years and an entire continent separating it from our stewardship in Binghamton, NY)
1955 Cessna 170B (wife taught me to fly tailwheel in this)

And present...
64 Mooney M20E ("Rambo". My faithful steed for over 30 years) Nearly 50 years old, and just returned from a trip to Argentina in him
Newest in the fleet
1967 Piper Super Cub on Wipline amphibious floats (a true "all terrain vehicle")
2010 Triumph Thunderbird


You can snap roll an Alfa only one time...
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2010, 09:40 AM
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Hi Ian and Don,

I disassembled, cleaned and repacked my 2600 throw-out bearing, but it is now back in the car (and working fine), so I can't go look at it.

I seem to recall being able to carefully drive it out of the carrier - I think a bit of the race or ring was visible from the back side, and I used a flat punch to tap it out, alternating sides etc. I used a vice with the jaws open just larger than the throw-out face, so the carrier rested on the jaws. I don't recall it being a bear of a job.

I would take another look at it and maybe apply some gentle persuasion...

Good luck!

John
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2010, 10:07 AM
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John

Thanks for the tip - any sign off the bow?

Ian
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2010, 10:09 AM
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You're welcome - hope it works out. No sign of the bow yet.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2010, 05:57 AM
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The money pit becons

Well - ignore my advise to lever between the flywheel ring gear and a gearbox stud. Yes you can achieve massive leverage and turn the engine - this does not however mean the engine isn't seized. I persevered levering too long hoping the engine would free up , nope I now have one broken gearbox stud and one bent one . Now removed to replace anyone know a source?

I bet professional mechanics laugh at the idiot things us amateurs do!

So there is definitely something seized and I am at the point where the sum of the parts is probably more than the whole and that’s without my labour cost to finish this.

The good news is the engine was definitely fully rebuilt prior to seizing. The valve surfaces are all clean and shinny.

Anyway I shall continue and investigate the bottom end – the patient is currently ready to install on an engine stand for inspection.. Of course being a 2600 I cannot fit it on the stand until the sump is off! Has anyone experience of putting a 2600 engine on a stand?
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Last edited by Redmerlin; 02-22-2010 at 02:40 PM.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2010, 09:00 AM
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there is a trans here:Alfa Romeo 2600 5 speed transmission : eBay Motors (item 370334420738 end time Mar-13-10 18:58:15 PST)

in the USA....they weigh around 80 lbs? so shipping to UK...? don't have a clue

David
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2010, 09:48 AM
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Hi Ian,

I managed to modify my stand by drilling an extra set of holes in the part that is attached to the motor, so it allowed the motor to move forward away from the stand. I also spaced that part off the motor a bit (I used longer bolts, and large nuts as spacers).

It was a bit Heath Robinson, but it worked.

BTW: I was amazed at the amount of crud in the sump!

John
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2010, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by degruch View Post
Just keep looking at those glossy pictures Ian...I have a very poor Bond Equipe in the process of restoration, a restored photo for my screen saver gives me comfort on a regular basis.

Sprints are such handsome cars...a guy several streets away from my parents has two sitting in his shed, which used to be daily drivers. I lusted after them for years. They're (generally) such inexpensive cars on the classic market here in Australia, I'd love to buy one, but they are incredibly rare (although some were assembled by Lightburn right here in Adelaide...where are they?). Unfortunately, their relatively low value means all manner of crimes have been performed on them...fitted with V8's, chopped into Spiders (actual Spiders were never sold here), kg's of 'Bondo' stuffed into every hole, it's no wonder they've all gone.

Your car looks very 'honest', I have no doubts you'll be posting your own glossy photo's here soon. Good luck!

Duane
Duane, there is one currently on e-bay that is a restorer and given it has been listed a number of times not reaching the reserve, my guess is that the price is probably not too high. However, you are mostly correct re their market values here in Aus, as over the past 2-3 years I have seen a number of 2600 sprint restoration project cars turnup on ebay for not high money.

Alternatively there is one on carsales at the moment for $35+K and another one was previously listed around the $25K mark.

Down here in Tassie I know of at least 3 cars waiting for restorations, one guy (a friend of mine has 2 of these cars). Though I don't think any of them are for sale.

All the best with the resto redmerlin. Dave

Dave
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2010, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Super1600 View Post
Duane, there is one currently on e-bay that is a restorer and given it has been listed a number of times not reaching the reserve, my guess is that the price is probably not too high. However, you are mostly correct re their market values here in Aus, as over the past 2-3 years I have seen a number of 2600 sprint restoration project cars turnup on ebay for not high money.

Alternatively there is one on carsales at the moment for $35+K and another one was previously listed around the $25K mark.

Down here in Tassie I know of at least 3 cars waiting for restorations, one guy (a friend of mine has 2 of these cars). Though I don't think any of them are for sale.

All the best with the resto redmerlin. Dave

Dave
Cheers Dave,

I have been watching that car, I'm sure they want ~$6k, which is fine, but I don't need any more projects...would prefer a good runner if I was to buy (currently chasing an Isuzu Bellett GT). It's certainly a very good looking car, in the photos at least.

There is another on eBay currently for $12.5k fitted with...I hope you're sitting down...a Holden 202! What did I say about crimes to motoring being regularly performed on 2600's? The $35k car on CarSales is overpriced for the market (IMO)...when have you ever seen a car on that site not overpriced? The $25k car dropped below $20k before it was sold, and looked like good value.

Sorry to threadjack...Dave (Super1600), I did think of you when I saw these cars.

Cheers,
Duane

Last edited by degruch; 02-18-2010 at 06:32 PM. Reason: Spelling
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2010, 06:42 PM
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Hey Duane, and yes not to hijack Redmerlin's thread too much, but thanks for thinking of me. Wow, I just had a look at the Blue one (favourite colour) with the Holden engine, apart from that, it looks to be a really nice car for the money, ie $12K. Lucky bugger who gets that one, as it also comes with the correct engine etc.

Far better value than the other one (burgandy restoration project) currently for sale on ebay and infinitely better than the carsales one. I know what you mean re that site. There has been a GTV6 for sale for ages at $35K. Dreamers.

**** I too am unable to find the spare $$$ right now, as need every spare $ for house rennovations, let alone my other projects.

Goodluck on finding the Isuzu GT, they are pretty rare now so wouldn't think too easy to find one.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2010, 03:13 PM
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Sidelight wiring - for UK use

I've been exploring the electrics on my car - not too great as the previous owner pulled out all the lights and cut a lot of cables. I've managed to sort out the headlights - dipped and main beam - there were 3 different sets of wiring - original, re-wired , re-wired with relay . Amazingly all now works and i've binned all the spare wiring.

I'm stuck on the side-lights - in the Uk side lights must be permanently on when used and are not allowed to blink as indicators. I have orange lights on the bumper and orange side - repeaters all to use as indicators. But no sign of where to wire side-lights - even though the car was used in the UK.

One headlight has a hole at the back for a side light next to the main lamp the other doesn't. Any suggestions?
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2010, 05:29 AM
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Lights

Ian,

I have set mine up to have the bumper 'side lights' work as indicators only, along with the orange side repeaters. I kept the lenses clear and use a yellow bulb instead.

The new headlights I then fitted carry an integral side-light bulb within the main body of the light under the main bulb. On Switch position 1 the side lights come on and on pulling the light switch out further to position 2, the headlight bulbs come on.

The twin smaller lights are then connected to a period flasher stick (previously fitted around the steering column by the previous owner - you'd never know it was after-market) that then doubles as the main-beam on/off switch too.

The Headlights I bought were new sealed units - they're excellent and very bright. The light units that came when I bought the car had open backs to them (?) that would simply collect large amounts of road water. No good at all obviously.

I also needed to fit a new flasher/repeater unit to get the flash timing right
I'll dig around for the receipts to give you the details. Hope that helps a little.
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102 Sprint 2000

In the family:
1960 750/101 Giulietta Sprint
1964 105 GTC
1962 Giulia Sprint Speciale (rhd)

In the past:
1939 MG TB - full race (historic). Multiple championship winning. Raced in the family for more than 20 years.
1964 Morris Minor (first car!) - it taught me a lot, then it died
1984 Land Rover Lightweight 24V - ex Army - Falklands conflict. Ridiculously fun during University years
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2010, 06:37 AM
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Side-lights

Marc

Thanks - I will follow the same set-up - I assume you have passed a UK MOT with this. Some-where at home I have some spare headlamps.

I'll dig the hub caps out when I'm next at home (this weekend)


cheers

Ian
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2010, 06:45 AM
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just a note about open back headlamps with replaceable bulbs. Most should have a rubber fitting (boot) that fits over the opening and through which the lamp connectors fit.

That coupled with the headlamp "bowl" into which the assembly fits, should provide pretty good weather-proofing.

David
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