24v cambelt tensioner

[treborblack]

Why are they obsolete and what are my options. when changing the belt do i therefore just change the rollers and wait for the engine to go bang

[Alfisto Steve]

Test it off engine. If piston can not be pushed in at all by putting piston against hard surface and pushing by hand on body it should be good. Then put in vise and try to compress piston SLOWLY by tightening vise. It should be very hard to compress. DO NOT TRY TO COMPRESS FAST, JUST VERIFY THERE IS NO FREE PLAY IN PISTON BEFORE IT IS SLOW TO COMPRESS. Once it is compressed in vise open vise jaws and piston should extend pretty fast.

SLOWLY compress in vise again and insert 1/16" rig pin (drill rod) into body and through piston so you can install timing belt then do belt tensioning process.

If you need a new tensioner see Di Fatta Brothers - Alfa Romeo and Fiat Parts Sales and Service and email them to get a new one if UK doesn't have any.

Can't figure out why you guys in UK have such a hard time getting 164 parts.

[treborblack]

As Alfa's go the 164 was a very poor seller. i dont know the sales figures.

But they rarely come up for sale so i guess it's supply and demand thing.

As for the cambelt change, other than the cambelt and tensioner what else would you change?

[Alfissimo Int.]

Quote:

Originally Posted by treborblack As Alfa's go the 164 was a very poor seller. i dont know the sales figures. But they rarely come up for sale so i guess it's supply and demand thing. As for the cambelt change, other than the cambelt and tensioner what else would you change?

[g84]

How com they are going N/A its not long ago they stopped make the engine.
Try this firm in Netherlands Firma Tuynder
site is not in english but its very easy to see what you need and just click to get a quote or order.


JK
164 Q4-95

[Alfissimo Int.]

Quote:

Originally Posted by g84 How com they are going N/A its not long ago they stopped make the engine. Try this firm in Netherlands Firma Tuynder site is not in english but its very easy to see what you need and just click to get a quote or order. JK 164 Q4-95

[Alfisto Steve]

John H's failed but that is first one I have heard off. I gave him Myron's old one which was fine but his repair shop changed it anyway but mistimed the cams so I had to do job over again for him.

[richardbradford]

I have a 1995 24v which ran fine until the oil seals went on the spark plug wells and filled the rear plugs with oil. Changed all these seals and cam cover gaskets and re-asembled but still running rough on rear bank. New plugs made no difference and the engine runs worse as it warms, which led many to think it was the insulation breaking down on the coil packs. Changed those on the rear bank but it still isn't right.
Wedging the throttle pedal in neutral to keep the engine at a constant 3000rpm, pulled off all 6 injector connectors, one at a time, and each one had an effect yet all the rear ones had a weak effect while all the front ones had a stronger effect.
Could this be cam timing gone wrong on the rear bank all of a sudden? If so what is involved to check it? The injectors are all fine by the way - had them all sent for ultrasound cleaning etc and the report said they were fine even before it. HELP!!!! Please!

[Alfisto Steve]

Quote:

Originally Posted by richardbradford I have a 1995 24v which ran fine until the oil seals went on the spark plug wells and filled the rear plugs with oil. Changed all these seals and cam cover gaskets and re-asembled but still running rough on rear bank. New plugs made no difference and the engine runs worse as it warms, which led many to think it was the insulation breaking down on the coil packs. Changed those on the rear bank but it still isn't right. Wedging the throttle pedal in neutral to keep the engine at a constant 3000rpm, pulled off all 6 injector connectors, one at a time, and each one had an effect yet all the rear ones had a weak effect while all the front ones had a stronger effect. Could this be cam timing gone wrong on the rear bank all of a sudden? If so what is involved to check it? The injectors are all fine by the way - had them all sent for ultrasound cleaning etc and the report said they were fine even before it. HELP!!!! Please!

[richardbradford]

Damn, hoped it would be an easier fix. Does this also mean new belts? Mine have done 35000 miles since the last change - service intervals 72000.

[Alfisto Steve]

Refer to Alfa Tech Service Bulletin 01.97.01

Inspect for "Type A" belt 60561244 new style belt. It has rounded cog teeth.

Old Style belt "Type B" has rounded cog teeth BUT with indention in middle of each rounded tooth.

Replace Type B with A.

If there is a white check mark on timing belt cover inspection has been done.

As for mileage if you have to retime cams and retension belt I would replace it.

[richardbradford]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alfisto Steve Refer to Alfa Tech Service Bulletin 01.97.01 Inspect for "Type A" belt 60561244 new style belt. It has rounded cog teeth. Old Style belt "Type B" has rounded cog teeth BUT with indention in middle of each rounded tooth. Replace Type B with A. If there is a white check mark on timing belt cover inspection has been done. As for mileage if you have to retime cams and retension belt I would replace it.

[richardbradford]

Some time later....

Today got a new cambelt on the 24v, 1995, and had put white marks on the old belt and cam wheels/crank prior to its removal. New belt is not tensioned up yet, tensioner still to be fitted, and the white marks transfered to the new belt indicate that, with the cams and crank in position, the belt needs to move another tooth across the front cam wheels for there to be the correct amount of belt/teeth between the cams. Obviously this is going to add load to the entire belt and my friend seems to think it might be best to remove the idler that sits between the cams, to get more slack at the top end and then to add the tensioner pulley, with minimal tension and then re-fit the top idler before doing a final 'tighten up' via the tensioner. Would double check all remains lined up after manually turning the engine over a few times but my question is this:
If all the other gubbins is connected how difficult is it going to be to then refit the top idler pulley, consider the load it would be under?

By the way, I have paint marks on my cam pulleys that point to each other when they are aligned, hence this approach.

[richardbradford]

Quote:

Originally Posted by richardbradford Some time later.... Today got a new cambelt on the 24v, 1995, and had put white marks on the old belt and cam wheels/crank prior to its removal. New belt is not tensioned up yet, tensioner still to be fitted, and the white marks transfered to the new belt indicate that, with the cams and crank in position, the belt needs to move another tooth across the front cam wheels for there to be the correct amount of belt/teeth between the cams. Obviously this is going to add load to the entire belt and my friend seems to think it might be best to remove the idler that sits between the cams, to get more slack at the top end and then to add the tensioner pulley, with minimal tension and then re-fit the top idler before doing a final 'tighten up' via the tensioner. Would double check all remains lined up after manually turning the engine over a few times but my question is this: If all the other gubbins is connected how difficult is it going to be to then refit the top idler pulley, consider the load it would be under? By the way, I have paint marks on my cam pulleys that point to each other when they are aligned, hence this approach.

[Alfisto Steve]

Good to hear you were able to time it and move forward.