clutch engages low

**rkundrat** · #1 (**permalink**) 03-31-2008, 04:36 PM

So it's always had a little play, maybe 1" of travel before I felt the resistance of the clutch disengaging. Recently this floppy travel before engagement has grown. The pedal now moves 1/2 - 2/3 of the way to the floor before the clutch begins to disengage. Seems to sit lower if it's colder or the car has sat a couple days. I'm still able to fully disengage and shift properly, but I'm worried my luck will run out soon. When in the range of the clutch being disengaged/engaged, the pedal has a very strong return, above that point, only the pressure of the return spring on the pedal itself. The clutch does fully engage and holds very tight, never any slipping. I was thinking master or slave cylinder, but if were one of the two, how do I determine which is the culprit??? Thanks!

jol · #2 (**permalink**) 03-31-2008, 05:15 PM

As the slave more often is the one, try it first

It's cheaper aswell and not too hard to change.

**rkundrat** · #3 (**permalink**) 04-14-2008, 05:24 AM

Okay, so I didn't take my own advise and preempt a non-working clutch. Started her up this morning and clutch won't disengage. Pedal goes nearly to the floor and does not return on it's own. Luckily I was able to get a loaner car, but I'm at work with no access to my cardisc. Does anyone have p/n for the slave cylinder? Is there anything else I should replace when doing this? I've not done one before, but it seems fairly straight forward (well more so than the master.) Thanks!

Alfisto Steve · #4 (**permalink**) 04-14-2008, 06:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rkundrat

Okay, so I didn't take my own advise and preempt a non-working clutch. Started her up this morning and clutch won't disengage. Pedal goes nearly to the floor and does not return on it's own. Luckily I was able to get a loaner car, but I'm at work with no access to my cardisc. Does anyone have p/n for the slave cylinder? Is there anything else I should replace when doing this? I've not done one before, but it seems fairly straight forward (well more so than the master.) Thanks!

**rkundrat** · #5 (**permalink**) 04-14-2008, 07:08 AM

I have not inspected the pedal, good thought Steve. I will check for cracks and elongated pivot point tonight.

I had the damper bypassed about 8 years ago (meaning hose is 8 years old.) Should I still replace hose 60608470?

Is Kit just to rebuild old slave cylinder?

Also, do I need a presure bleeder or can I do it with a helper pushing the pedal? (What am I saying, perfect opportunity to get another tool!)

Alfisto Steve · #6 (**permalink**) 04-14-2008, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rkundrat

I have not inspected the pedal, good thought Steve. I will check for cracks and elongated pivot point tonight.

I had the damper bypassed about 8 years ago (meaning hose is 8 years old.) Should I still replace hose 60608470?

Is Kit just to rebuild old slave cylinder?

Also, do I need a presure bleeder or can I do it with a helper pushing the pedal? (What am I saying, perfect opportunity to get another tool!)

**Alfissimo Int.** · #7 (**permalink**) 04-14-2008, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alfisto Steve

I would bet a new hose just to be save. Pressure bleeders are nice and makes the job of flushing out/bleeding both clutch and brake hydraulic systems a lot easier.

Kit is to do slave and it maybe all you need that way if nothing else you will have a spare slave or kit. I know Difatta has kits and hoses as I have gotten them from them before.

**rkundrat** · #8 (**permalink**) 04-15-2008, 06:35 AM

Thanks guys.

Does anyone know if there is a braided stainless clutch hose available for the 164? Thought I read or heard about this once before. I figure if I'm replacing it anyway...

**Alfissimo Int.** · #9 (**permalink**) 04-15-2008, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rkundrat

Thanks guys.

Does anyone know if there is a braided stainless clutch hose available for the 164? Thought I read or heard about this once before. I figure if I'm replacing it anyway...

**rkundrat** · #10 (**permalink**) 04-16-2008, 05:12 PM

So I got into replacing the slave this evening. Was going fine until I tried to get the slave out of the bracket (damn new england rust...) I hammered, pressed in vise, even heated with my jewelry torch. Nothing. I think I'll have to wait until I can get to a garage to have someone press it out for me. Anyway, while trying to control my bracket frustration I decided to inspect the clutch pedal pivot. I have not removed it but did not notice any abnormal play when pressing it slightly and inspecting the mount and pivot points. I DID, however, notice some brownish fluid on the clutch mounting bolt... I'm beginning to think I may be in this for a slave and a master. Luckily I ordered both, should I just do the master, or try bleeding the system through after finishing the slave?

Alfisto Steve · #11 (**permalink**) 04-16-2008, 05:46 PM

Was your slave leaking externally? If not then master maybe going bad.

**rkundrat** · #12 (**permalink**) 04-16-2008, 05:56 PM

The boot was completely torn on the slave, but I didn't notice any fluid... I'm thinking the master is the problem too... I guess I'll plan on starting that as well. I seem to remember reading that removing the seat is the easiest way to work on the master?

Also noticed a oily film inside the afm and rubber intake hose when I pulled the airbox. Is that something to be concerned about? (btw I use a stock alfa paper filter, not k&n with the oil.)

peglegtom · #13 (**permalink**) 04-16-2008, 06:52 PM

I replaced just the slave cylinder after the clutch pedal went to the floor on Thanksgiving. Had some problems bleeding the system with the normal pedal push procedure, but got the air out by removing the slave from the bracket and holding it as high as possible, then doing the pedal push procedure. Use a C-clamp to hold the rod and piston in the slave when you do this. A normal C-clamp works a lot better than one of the "squeeze" types!

I also had a problem getting the slave out of the bracket. (I bought my car from someone that used it as a daily driver in MA). Finally got it out by removing the slave and bracket assembly from the trans. and then heating the bracket with a propane torch. I also applied a lot of P-B blaster prior to this without sucess. The torch worked wonders, but I wouldn't do it under the hood.

Hope this helps!

**rkundrat** · #14 (**permalink**) 04-17-2008, 03:01 AM

Hmmm... Maybe I just need to get it really cooking. My jewelry torch is a small direct flame, so perhaps a bit more heat is in order...

Alfisto Steve · #15 (**permalink**) 04-17-2008, 04:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rkundrat

The boot was completely torn on the slave, but I didn't notice any fluid... I'm thinking the master is the problem too... I guess I'll plan on starting that as well. I seem to remember reading that removing the seat is the easiest way to work on the master?

Also noticed a oily film inside the afm and rubber intake hose when I pulled the airbox. Is that something to be concerned about? (btw I use a stock alfa paper filter, not k&n with the oil.)