Bleeding 164 brakes

[oz3litre]

My 164 needs new front brake hoses. I am trying to decide whether or not to tackle the job myself in view of the fact that it has ABS. I have done a million brake jobs on non ABS cars. Is this a job for someone with a pressure bleeder or can I do it myself? I don't want to find myself unable to get a pedal and then having to pay for it to be towed to my Alfa mechanic anyway. Any advise will be greatly appreciated.

[Richard2]

If all you are doing is replacing the hoses, it doesn't matter if it has ABS or not.
1.Can you find someone to pump the pedal while you bleed the brakes?
2. I made a really cheap pressure bleeder out of an inner tube and a second 164 brake reservoir.
3. Are you replacing the rear hoses? If so , the rear wheel you are bleeding must be raised up and not lower as when you use the jacking point. The rear balance valve must be actuated to get fluid to that brake cylinder.
4. Bleeding the front brakes is straight forward.

[Alfissimo Int.]

Do it yourself.
You need a partner for the pedal. The rear brake valve needs to be in a normal level position for the fluid to bleed.

1. Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver. (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.) While the actual sequence is not critical to the bleed performance it is easy to remember the sequence as the farthest to the closest. This will also allow the system to be bled in such a way as to minimize the amount of potential cross-contamination between the new and old fluid.

2. Locate the bleeder screw at the rear of the caliper body (or drum brake wheel cylinder.) Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder screw – and don't lose it!

3. Place the box-end wrench over the bleeder screw. An offset wrench works best – since it allows the most room for movement.

4. Place one end of the clear plastic hose over the nipple of the bleeder screw.

5. Place the other end of the hose into the disposable bottle.

6. Place the bottle for waste fluid on top of the caliper body or drum assembly. Hold the bottle with one hand and grasp the wrench with the other hand.

7. Instruct the assistant to "apply." The assistant should pump the brake pedal three times, hold the pedal down firmly, and respond with "applied." Instruct the assistant not to release the brakes until told to do so.

8. Loosen the bleeder screw with a brief ¼ turn to release fluid into the waste line. The screw only needs to be open for one second or less. (The brake pedal will "fall" to the floor as the bleeder screw is opened. Instruct the assistant in advance not to release the brakes until instructed to do so.)

9. Close the bleeder screw by tightening it gently. Note that one does not need to pull on the wrench with ridiculous force. Usually just a quick tug will do.

10. Instruct the assistant to "release" the brakes. Note: do NOT release the brake pedal while the bleeder screw is open, as this will suck air back into the system!

11. The assistant should respond with "released."

12. Inspect the fluid within the waste line for air bubbles.

13. Continue the bleeding process (steps 11 through 16) until air bubbles are no longer present. Be sure to check the brake fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel! Add fluid as necessary to keep the level at the MAX marking. (Typically, one repeats this process 5-10 times per wheel when doing a ‘standard' bleed.)

14. Move systematically toward the driver – right rear, left rear, right front, left front - repeating the bleeding process at each corner. Be sure to keep a watchful eye on the brake fluid reservior! Keep it full!

15. When all four corners have been bled, spray the bleeder screw (and any other parts that were moistened with spilled or dripped brake fluid) with brake cleaner and wipe dry with a clean rag. (Leaving the area clean and dry will make it easier to spot leaks through visual inspection later!) Try to avoid spraying the brake cleaner DIRECTLY on any parts made of rubber or plastic, as the cleaner can make these parts brittle after repeated exposure.

16. Test the brake pedal for a firm feel. (Bleeding the brakes will not necessarily cure a "soft" or "mushy" pedal – since pad taper and compliance elsewhere within the system can contribute to a soft pedal. But the pedal should not be any worse than it was prior to the bleeding procedure!)

Easy

[ChazzyD]

The only thing specifically pertaining to the 164 is, when you bleed the rear, the suspension must be loaded to get the rear calipers to bleed. There is a weight biasing valve in the rear that will prevent bleeding if the wheels are hanging.
Charles

[oz3litre]

Thanks for the help guys. You have given me the confidence to do the job myself and hopefully save some money. I'll let you know how it goes.

[Alfisto Steve]

Quote:

Originally Posted by oz3litre Thanks for the help guys. You have given me the confidence to do the job myself and hopefully save some money. I'll let you know how it goes.

[elite38868]

Don't forget to make sure the rear hubs are raised up as if it was sitting on level ground so that the proportioning valve sends the full amount of fluid.....

[fafner1]

I put a new master cyclinder in our 164Q and didn't have any problem bleeding the brakes. I have done lots of systems the old fasioned way (single handed no less) but this time bought a vacuum bleeder from Griots. It seemed to work just fine.

[percya]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChazzyD The only thing specifically pertaining to the 164 is, when you bleed the rear, the suspension must be loaded to get the rear calipers to bleed. There is a weight biasing valve in the rear that will prevent bleeding if the wheels are hanging. Charles

[pavanbabut]

I replaced my front rotors and pads and bled all four wheels until I can see clear fluid running out. But, still the pedal feels soft, I mean its not spot on, you need to push it lower gradually to get the full braking effect. Is there something else I need to look at to get rid of this??

-Pavan.

[Alfissimo Int.]

Quote:

Originally Posted by pavanbabut I replaced my front rotors and pads and bled all four wheels until I can see clear fluid running out. But, still the pedal feels soft, I mean its not spot on, you need to push it lower gradually to get the full braking effect. Is there something else I need to look at to get rid of this?? -Pavan.