The 164 package deal

[gprocket]

Alex: Fortunately I had all the spares as part of the deal so there were no additional $$ - just our labor.

ChazzyD: I've got two cardiscs that came with the cars - one is the tensioner video and the other is the stepper motor. Unfortunately they are the older version that don't work on VP and Vista (I can watch the AVI files). So I'm looking for an old computer to run it on. I'm guessing somewhere I have the whole cardisc set somewhere. I also have the factory service manuals and a whole bunch of other data. Some much so that I'm having a hard time sorting through it all.

I agree that the only way to be 100% sure of the position is to see it with my own eyes...

[ChazzyD]

You are all set. The Cardisc doesn't work on my Macintosh either, so I have been converting it all to pdf. That has been a chore, but I have what I need converted for the most part. I just wish they had scanned the pages in a little higher resolution.
Charles

[gprocket]

Success! Using the timing template (thanks Steve), we sorted out the cams very quickly. But it still didn't want to fire. Pulled the front cam cover off to verify that the cam position which was good. Finally, we pulled to cap to discover that the cap and rotor were a mess - perhaps from when the anti-freeze boiled over. Swapped in a new cap and rotor and wires and vroom!

Not quite out of the woods yet as we need to button everything up and go for a test drive but it it was a big relief to see the 3.0 doing it's thing.

Thanks again for the great input from ya'll!

[gprocket]

Charles: What are you using to convert the files? (Sorry for the hijack...)

[Alfisto Steve]

Quote:

Originally Posted by gprocket Alex: Fortunately I had all the spares as part of the deal so there were no additional $$ - just our labor. ChazzyD: I've got two cardiscs that came with the cars - one is the tensioner video and the other is the stepper motor. Unfortunately they are the older version that don't work on VP and Vista (I can watch the AVI files). So I'm looking for an old computer to run it on. I'm guessing somewhere I have the whole cardisc set somewhere. I also have the factory service manuals and a whole bunch of other data. Some much so that I'm having a hard time sorting through it all. I agree that the only way to be 100% sure of the position is to see it with my own eyes...

[ChazzyD]

I just copied all the image files to my computer and opened them in Photoshop, batch process to pdf, open the pdfs in Acrobat Professional and consolidate to individual multi-page pdfs by section. Takes a while, but worth the effort.
Charles

[gprocket]

Yippie! The car is back together and running great. Temperature is running just slightly above 175F and teh AC systems to be working again (not sure what teh correlation is there). With the new ignition components the car idles smooth and feels more powerful than before.

Thanks again for all your help.

Steve: I don't see a patch on Larry's website - am I missing something?

[Craig]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChazzyD I just copied all the image files to my computer and opened them in Photoshop, batch process to pdf, open the pdfs in Acrobat Professional and consolidate to individual multi-page pdfs by section. Takes a while, but worth the effort. Charles

[gprocket]

Does this sound like a bad starter? The '91L auto sat for several days. We had some pretty good rain storms in the interim. This morning I hopped in and turned the key but all I got was a clicking noise. With an assistant turning the key I was able to assure myself that the clicking noise was coming from the starter. I am imagining the solenoid deploying and then returning to zero position and then cycling again. I sent my able assistant under the car with a mallet and gave it a good rap while I manned the ignition but to no avail.

So I think the starter needs to come out. I found some excellent threads covering this and it makes pulling the head seem like a walk in the park. Any odd chance someone has a trick I could try to resurrect the starter before I dive in to this?

[AR4me]

A dead/tired battery may result in just clicking when you try to start. Did you try jump it?
Jes

[MrT]

The light in the passenger size visor sometimes stays on, and it _will_ pull the battery down. So will a sticking on trunk lamp, or the light inside the glove compartment. yes, some of these can indeed do you in. check 'em all.

Michael

[Alfisto Steve]

Always just take two asprin before trying brain surgery as Skip would say.

Besides closing/checking vanity mirror cover switch and checking trunk light switch also check battery cables - clean inside terminal and battery posts. Be sure you don't have a bad cell or one needing electrolyte.

Be sure somebody didn't push C-pillar light buttons behind rear seat.

Oh as for your question about patch to run older versions of cardisc on XP it is no longer on cardisc web site. He Leo not Larry has an return upgrade program now to get newer version by turning in your older CD.

[gprocket]

Sorry, I should have been a little more explicit. I pretty much ruled out the battery. In addition to checking the terminals I first used a car starter and then swapped batteries with another 164. Additionally, everything electrical works and the headlights don't dim. As I'm writing this I am thinking that perhaps I could jumper the cabling and somehow attach a battery at the motor. I would need to find a suitable spot.

As for aspirin logic, I need look no further then this weekend's exploits. Seeing water all over the basement floor I quickly determined that I needed to replace the hot water heater. After buying the replacement tank and fighting with it all weekend long to get the old one out I finally noticed that there was a valve leaking in the other room that was flowing down underneath the otherwise perfectly fine water heater. $5 and 15 minutes verses $500 and 15 hours...

[Alfisto Steve]

OK check engine ground cable at tranny and at body near air cleaner for good ground.

Next you can try applying 12v directly to pin 2 (black wires) in big G151 connector behind false firewall. Pin 2 goes to small wire on starter that is powered by starter relay I10 when you turn key to start. If you still get a click there then either wire connector bad at starter or something amiss with starter or large cabling to it.

[gprocket]

When you say get a click are you saying the click from the starter solenoid or the I10? I definately get a solenoid click.