Camshaft removal, procedure clarification - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 07:26 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
beeton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Beeton, Ontario
Posts: 434
Camshaft removal, procedure clarification

I am starting to re and re my timing belt to check all pulleys, tensioner, etc and also want to change the camshaft seals but not clear on procedures.

When locking my cams (for timing belt removal) I al using feeler gauges under one cap but don't recall if I need to lock all 4 or just the rear most on both banks (one closest to firewall and 3rd from firewall?). Lining up to TDC (and to be sure, that means the lobes on cams 1 and 2 (closest to fender) are at 1 and 11:00 o'clock positions?) I noticed that cam 2 is off a bit.

Then I want to remove the first (firewall) cam pulley to have a crack between teeth repaired as I am worried about the span getting wider and causing tooth slippage. So, that part is clear... 19mm wrench... but how do I remove the camshafts safely to get to the seals? Do I start at the seal end and work down to the 3 caps in any particular order? Searching the threads but not coming up (at least not for me). Please point and it's o.k. to snicker.

Thanks.

Last edited by beeton; 05-19-2017 at 07:27 AM. Reason: typo
beeton is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 10:29 AM
Registered User
 
goats's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: san diego CA
Posts: 3,764
Not sure I understand really. For a normal Tbelt change, go to TDC (crank mark and lines on back side (driver side) of cams to head) and lock the cams with the dies. If you don't have dies, lock the rear exhaust at least (that's the one that likes to slip in my experience) -- But I;ve done it without locking it with a helper to move the cam into place when the belt goes on.

But to remove the cam its why bother to lock it? Go to TDC (crank mark and lines on back) and take off the cam caps ; I loosen them a little bit working down the line all bolts and then a little more up the line etc.

goats

74 GTV with 10548's and Ingram pump --speedo been around at least twice -- [B]needs new oil rings[/B]!
1995 LS Q runners Auto Green/tan [B]230K[/B] 100% LCD paint absolutely SHOT!
1995 LS 5 speed Green /tan 48K Q runners squadra chip 100 % LCD -- nice tight car
Misc parts laying around for 24V and 2Liter- always need more it seems
2004 Tacoma 4 door TRD (wifes car/kid hauler)- 172K
Mission Vsi, Mission Mod 2, - 20+ years of hockey on these!
radio flyer- rusty from disuse!
goats is offline  
post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
beeton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Beeton, Ontario
Posts: 434
Quote:
Originally Posted by goats View Post
Not sure I understand really. For a normal Tbelt change, go to TDC (crank mark and lines on back side (driver side) of cams to head) and lock the cams with the dies. If you don't have dies, lock the rear exhaust at least (that's the one that likes to slip in my experience) -- But I;ve done it without locking it with a helper to move the cam into place when the belt goes on.

But to remove the cam its why bother to lock it? Go to TDC (crank mark and lines on back) and take off the cam caps ; I loosen them a little bit working down the line all bolts and then a little more up the line etc.
I was worried about the rear camshaft slipping as it tends to do and damaging a valve and just not clear whether this could happen if I tried to remove caps first. So, If I understand this, when loosening the caps for the rear cam, the valve spring should push up on the valve lobe? When installing, I should also feel resistance on the cam?
beeton is offline  
 
post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 11:03 AM
Registered User
 
goats's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: san diego CA
Posts: 3,764
Yes, the valves will close (move away from the pistons) when you remove the camshaft. No danger there of whacking anything, When you re-install that's when you need to make sure you are lined up on the reference marks on the back side (within reason).

goats

74 GTV with 10548's and Ingram pump --speedo been around at least twice -- [B]needs new oil rings[/B]!
1995 LS Q runners Auto Green/tan [B]230K[/B] 100% LCD paint absolutely SHOT!
1995 LS 5 speed Green /tan 48K Q runners squadra chip 100 % LCD -- nice tight car
Misc parts laying around for 24V and 2Liter- always need more it seems
2004 Tacoma 4 door TRD (wifes car/kid hauler)- 172K
Mission Vsi, Mission Mod 2, - 20+ years of hockey on these!
radio flyer- rusty from disuse!
goats is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
Replace with
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome