Alfa Romeo Forums banner

changing front camshaft seals

2K views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  beeton 
#1 ·
1993 164L auto trans. I am in the middle of changing the front camshaft seals. I got the left (front) camshaft hub and sprocket off. But the I don't think I have enough room to remove the right (rear) camshaft hub and sprocket. I think I have the "later engine" with only two pieces, a hub and sprocket. I removed the motor mount at the transmission and lowered the engine to gain clearance. I reviewed the thread "changing 164 cam pulley o-rings/oil seals" 8/19/05 Alfisto Steve. Are there any other threads or advice about getting enough clearance to remove the right hub and sprocket?
 
#2 ·
How to remove rear cam pulley hub from 164 12v engine

To get the rear cam one-piece pulley hub off the cam and out of head on later engines like yours you were wise to remove tranny mount for starters to lower tranny and get more room st front of engine. Some of these steps may be needed even on engine with two-piece cam pulley hub that has o-ring in it, too.

I am making any assumption you have the pancake flat puller set up to get hub to pop off end of cam shaft. If not you gotta make one from home depot plumbing dept parts like I show in my changing cam oil seal and o-ring post.

It is a rear close fit trying to get rear cam pulley hub off. Remove three M7 bolts holding pulley to hub with 11mm socket

As for getting hub off engine head and rear cam shaft I had to remove top engine dog bone.

I had to remove 17mm hex head nut on lower rear engine mount stud.

I put a ratchet strap between rear head engine mount and chassis frame by headlight.

I put board and floor jack under rear edge of oil pan.

Jack engine rear side up slightly off rear mount stud.

Used ratchet strap to pull and roll engine forward to get enough clearance to get pulley hub to clear side of chassis rail and come off end of threaded end of rear cam shaft.

You will have to unlatch plastic clamp for wiring near cam pulley and probably pop that clamp out of chassis side rail, too.

Be sure you have top of air cleaner unlatched and free moving so you don't damage AFM big corragated hose.

.
 
#3 ·
I haven't worked on removing the right sprocket and hub yet, but I have another question. There was a bit of oil behind the acorn nut. The acorn nut appeared to have sealant under it. Should I use some sealant on the acorn nut flange to prevent oil leakage, such as Loctite 518, during reassembly?
 
#4 ·
I just use Black RTV sealant on cam shaft end taper as I slide the cam hub back on and a little on face of acorn nut.
 
#5 ·
A related question: I just noticed a trace of oil on my ca. 5K timing belt, on the outside edge only, easy to wipe up. Otherwise block quite clean. I would assume car manufactured 12/91 would have 2-piece cam pulley. Would bad o-rings (provided this is the setup) be the culprit for front of belt getting oiled?
 
#6 ·
No, should be one piece hub. Pop off "madonna bra cups from TB covers and look at hub. If only 3 M7 11mm hex head bolts then no o-ring. If 5 M7 bolts then 2-piece hub with o-rings.

Do you have any oil streaks off cam acorn nut faces or do you have slight leak on your oil fed tensioner?
 
#7 ·
Thank you. One-piece hub (maybe), that's a relief. Will look at bolt configuration next weekend, can't wait to undo madonna's cups! Oil-fed detensioner seemed okay. A little oil drizzle on TB covers seems to suggest oil coming from higher position. Will report back.
 
#9 ·
The camshaft seals are in and the engine seems to run fine. I used all of Steves suggestions to get the right camshaft hub and sprocket off, I think the key items are removing the motor mount at the transmission, removing the nut on the motor mount under the oil filter, jacking up the rear of the engine.

Attached are photos of the camshaft tools I made. The puller is simply a plate with no center hole. I secured three 7mm x 50mm long studs onto the hub and sprocket then tightened the nuts on the top/outside of the plate to pull the hub.
 

Attachments

#11 ·
regular right hand threads on 24V, not sure about 12 V but I suspect right handed. The only places I recall where alfa used lefty thread is fan motor and passenger side lug nuts on my 71 spider!
 
#12 ·
Both 12v and 24v cam pulley attaching hardware are R/H threads. The 12v has acorn nuts on camshaft ends for pulley hubs and M7 bolts for cam pulleys to hubs. The 24v has bolts holding cam pulleys to camshafts.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top