WTB - trunk spring from an S - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-10-2017, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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WTB - trunk spring from an S

Hey all, I could really use some trunk springs from an S with a spoiler. I'm going work with Del, finally, to get my trunk fixed up. He did a spring conversion that is pretty slick. Maybe sticking with struts would "keep it original" but heck...

So if you got a line on some spring I would appreciate it.

Kevin
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-10-2017, 11:24 PM
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So the collapsing trunk lid is a design fault? I just thought the replacement struts I installed a year ago were faulty! Where do you install the springs? Can you post a photo?


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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 04:37 AM
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If L trunk springs will also work for the S then I should have a pair for you ....I probably have two pairs here.
Let me know if the L springs will work.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 06:12 AM
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Springs and hinges go together.

I replaced struts and hinges on my S with springs and hinges from an L.

Installed L deck lid, too.

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Daily drivers: USA models - 1991 164S Black Beauty II ALFISTO;

Daughter's current ride: BB1 my 164L and Her Granddads 2002 Ford Taurus is back up.

New parts hauler but not car hauler 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 4.7L H.O. V-8

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 09:15 AM
Del
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Yup all it takes is springs and lower arms, either from B/L if no spoiler, or S if have spoiler. No need to change the entire arms, just the lower part which attaches to the lid, and then make a small clip for attaching the rear of the spring as like the S. I made these two rear clips from angle aluminum and mounted them with flat head bolts to the trunk opening side troughs. Sealed with silicone goop.

Del

Seattle

89 Milano (wife's daily driver since 1989, Shankle Sport)
91 164S (my daily driver since 1994)
94 164LS (~Q) (trip Alfa since 2000)
72 Morgan 27 (water time since 1976)

previously owned since 1964:

62 Morris MiniMinor 850, 67 Austin 1275 Cooper S (Downton 3/4 race), 64 Giulia Sprint GT (1st red one made), 72 Fiat 128 Sedan, 75 Alfetta Sedan, 78 Alfetta Sedan, 78 GTV, 81 GTV6, 86 GTV6

Last edited by Del; 03-12-2017 at 09:38 PM. Reason: corrections needed for old age mistakes
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
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I need S springs. Come on fellas! Pony up! ;-)
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 10:08 AM
Del
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You can use springs from the B/L in the meantime til you get S springs. They will not be strong enough, but will work some, using a stick to hold the lid up. That way you will be set to install the S springs when you finally get some. You can install helper springs from the hardware store to simulate the S spring strength. Just clip on those springs to the coils of the B/L springs.

I haven't looked up to see if new S springs are available somewhere, part numbers: 60565369, 60565370,

or what they would cost. The old eper say maybe $15 ea? Both diFatta and Jason get shipments from Europe, so maybe they might be able to order them. diFatta has gotten parts for me from Europe.

Remember, you also need those lower lid arms w/spring attachment clips which just bolt to the bottom of the upper hinged arms you do have. Those you can get from any B/L/S lid which had springs.

Del

Seattle

89 Milano (wife's daily driver since 1989, Shankle Sport)
91 164S (my daily driver since 1994)
94 164LS (~Q) (trip Alfa since 2000)
72 Morgan 27 (water time since 1976)

previously owned since 1964:

62 Morris MiniMinor 850, 67 Austin 1275 Cooper S (Downton 3/4 race), 64 Giulia Sprint GT (1st red one made), 72 Fiat 128 Sedan, 75 Alfetta Sedan, 78 Alfetta Sedan, 78 GTV, 81 GTV6, 86 GTV6

Last edited by Del; 03-12-2017 at 09:45 PM. Reason: correction for old age mistakes
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
I replaced struts and hinges on my S with springs and hinges from an L.
If I have springs I will have hinges too.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 03:40 PM
Del
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No need to change the upper hinged arms themselves, just add the lower arms which attach to the lid and which have hooks from old spring style design. Good to go.

Del

Seattle

89 Milano (wife's daily driver since 1989, Shankle Sport)
91 164S (my daily driver since 1994)
94 164LS (~Q) (trip Alfa since 2000)
72 Morgan 27 (water time since 1976)

previously owned since 1964:

62 Morris MiniMinor 850, 67 Austin 1275 Cooper S (Downton 3/4 race), 64 Giulia Sprint GT (1st red one made), 72 Fiat 128 Sedan, 75 Alfetta Sedan, 78 Alfetta Sedan, 78 GTV, 81 GTV6, 86 GTV6

Last edited by Del; 03-12-2017 at 09:36 PM. Reason: correction of old age mistakes
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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Del, I did buy hinges and springs a while back. One of the hinges got used as a replacement for my old one on driver's side, which was damaged. The springs and the other hinge are in a box in my garage. All from an L
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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side note: I bought new back speakers. The Car Toys guy took a fast look and said the rear seat needs to come out. And that the original speakers are riveted in.

It can't be that difficult to remove the rear seat --- right?
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 04:42 PM
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Super easy to take out the rear seat. A few bolts and it lifts up, just don't force anything it should come easily.


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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 04:53 PM
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Not sure what this is all about. I've had several 24v cars ( Half a percent of USA import actually!) and have no issues with trunk struts /etc. 100% stock.

Rear speakers on 24v car come out from the top, 2 minutes tops.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 01:54 PM
Del
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"I've had several 24v cars ( Half a percent of USA import actually!) and have no issues with trunk struts /etc"

But some have, including Steve, with the tops of the struts bowing outward due to overloading/damage, due to perhaps being too forceful opening/closing the lid, of the weak hinge attachment in the roof rear side pillars. The clearance is very very tight at the top of the strut with the inside of the fender, and eventually the plastic top of the strut can migrate outward when the lid is closed with some force, and wear/dent the inside of the fender. It can wear a hole in the fender itself. The design as to how the rod attaches to the hinge arm is a bad location, resulting in significant overload deflections of the arm attachment in the thin sheet metal above.

My LS has a little bulge in the right rear fender at that location where the strut was hitting. As a temporary fix on our trip to see you, I used a long nylon load tie down strap looped/tightened around the two lid hinges, pulling them together a little to prevent rod contact with the inside of the fender.

Changing the rod setup back to springs as with the earlier B/L/S allowed me to remove those struts and avoid further damage.

PM sent to jckevin.

Del

Seattle

89 Milano (wife's daily driver since 1989, Shankle Sport)
91 164S (my daily driver since 1994)
94 164LS (~Q) (trip Alfa since 2000)
72 Morgan 27 (water time since 1976)

previously owned since 1964:

62 Morris MiniMinor 850, 67 Austin 1275 Cooper S (Downton 3/4 race), 64 Giulia Sprint GT (1st red one made), 72 Fiat 128 Sedan, 75 Alfetta Sedan, 78 Alfetta Sedan, 78 GTV, 81 GTV6, 86 GTV6

Last edited by Del; 03-12-2017 at 09:45 PM.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 08:31 PM
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Could one of you please post pictures of the hinges so I can work out how my 24v ones could be modified to accept springs. Do the 24v cars still have a mounting point in the trunk to attach the other end of the spring?


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