Rough idle at start-up and poor gas mileage

[BlackAlfa]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrreeve Codes i'm getting are: 1-4-1-1 Electro-injectors actuation test activated: continuous control at the frequency of 10 Hz. 1-4-1-2 Idle adjustment actuator activation test: continuous control for1 second at idle position and I second at maximum speed. 1-4-1-3 evaporation solenoid valve actuation test: continuous control at the frequency of 0.5 Hz. I read what that says but what does that even mean? Am i doing something wrong when pulling the codes? Thanks for all the help! Rob

[jrreeve]

4-4-4-4...no problems, right?

[Alfisto Steve]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrreeve 4-4-4-4...no problems, right?

[jrreeve]

The idle's gotten a bit better after startup since i tinkered today with the IAC and some of the lines. I still will be ordering the replacement parts tomorrow. (Molded canister hose and IAC grommet)

I pulled the wiring to the switch and took a look, it looks good. It looked like someone has already replaced it once. Do i have to pull the radiator hose to get at the CTS? Or is there a better way to get in there with an ohmeter?

[jontg428]

If you pull the passenger side front tire, there is an access panel you can remove, from there its easy access. I did this on my car once, took about 30 minutes. Hope you getter her running good soon, good luck,
Jon

[Alfisto Steve]

If you have a bosch connector "test lead" with wiring you can plug it to CTS and get reading at wire ends. Be sure terminals inside car;s bosch connector are not broken (will clamp pins tight) and are locked in flush with end of connector. If you have another temp sensor handy check resistance and if good cold plug it in to car harness and see how engine runs cold without installing it into thermostat housing. It should run OK warming up but will be causing engine to run rich and O2 sensor try to go lean as engine warms up but see what happens just for grins.

Use dielectric grease when you do hook connector back to a good sensor in thermostat.

I keep old O2 sensor connector and wires for testing and spare CTS to test car wiring.

[jrreeve]

I have a spare Bosch Fuel Injection Connector thats used with the CTS that I can use for testing. I may even have a spare CTS, depending on whether or not the GTV6 CTS was the same (and i didn't give it away with my GTV6). Scratch that, they are specific to the fuel injection system.

(Thanks, the lightbulb just went off!!!)

Rob

[jrreeve]

Grommets at Difatta are NLA. Checking other sources, i will let you know what i find out.

IAP does have them as PN 01297.

Rob

[Alfisto Steve]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrreeve I have a spare Bosch Fuel Injection Connector thats used with the CTS that I can use for testing. I may even have a spare CTS, depending on whether or not the GTV6 CTS was the same (and i didn't give it away with my GTV6). Scratch that, they are specific to the fuel injection system. (Thanks, the lightbulb just went off!!!) Rob

[jrreeve]

Got the read-out.

At dead Cold = 3.049 Ohms
At 1 bar under 175 = 369.8 Ohms
As the car comes up to temp the Ohm reading drops. At 175 = 292.6

So, is it CTS? Sounds hinky.
Rob

[BlackAlfa]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrreeve Got the read-out. At dead Cold = 3.049 Ohms At 1 bar under 175 = 369.8 Ohms As the car comes up to temp the Ohm reading drops. At 175 = 292.6 So, is it CTS? Sounds hinky. Rob

[jrreeve]

Sorry about that, must not have read that when i checked the multimeter. Yes, it does have an auto-range.

Let the car sit for three hours and its up to 1.869K Ohms. Looks like it works well enough. I'll give it another reading tomorrow, but do not think there is a problem with the CTS. The usually runs hotter than 175K around town, which i've heard is quite normal.

I should also note that the temperature in VA is pretty cold today, and my garage does lack heat. Not sure that it matters all that much, but figured shold include as much info as possible.

Maybe the crimps on the replacement bosch connector to CTS are shotty; might put on a new connector this week. Anyone ever use solder sleeves? Or is crimping the way to go? I've heard both. I know they use solder sleeves in missile canisters, figured if they can withstand the shock and vibe there, it might work on an Alfa.

Where is ECU in this car? Behind the radio or something? I'm hopiing my car disc gets here soon so I don't have to ask anymore silly questions.

Any chance i've got bad O2 sensor? Should have been picked up by fault codes though, right?

Thanks!

[BlackAlfa]

I think your CTS is OK! Getting to the ECU takes some work! It is inside the center console under the dash. You can get to it by removing the passenger side center console cover. But, if the connector and wires near the CTS looks OK I would check other things that might cause rough running. The broken oil separator hose and the old IAC grommet are sources for air leaks, I suggest get those replaced first and then trouble shoot further ...

[jrreeve]

Since the car is new to me, and i've had numerous suspect hoses, i'm replacing all the air hoses i can get my hands on and giving it a once over with a smoke pen this weekend.

I'll let you know how it goes, and then we can continue troubleshooting.

[jrreeve]

Just pulled the IAC to put on the new grommet, decided to re-check the IAC again. How easy should the rotary vane be able to move? Unless i'm probing the wrong thing this thing is pretty frozen. I've tried cleaning and what-not but have had no luck getting it to move. Faulty IAC confirmed?

Thanks,
Rob