CV Nuts

TerryJ · #1 (**permalink**) 11-21-2007, 04:47 PM

I need to replace the outer boot on my driver side front axle. What size are the nuts that secure the allen head screws on the inner CV joint. I am having a devil of a time in loosening these even with a air wrench. My 17mm or 19 mm box wrenches don't seem to want to go on. Terry

**Alfisto Steve** · #2 (**permalink**) 11-21-2007, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TerryJ

I need to replace the outer boot on my driver side front axle. What size are the nuts that secure the allen head screws on the inner CV joint. I am having a devil of a time in loosening these even with a air wrench. My 17mm or 19 mm box wrenches don't seem to want to go on. Terry

TerryJ · #3 (**permalink**) 11-21-2007, 08:31 PM

Steve,

I am not sure what you mean by an allen stock/allen stock adapter. I do have approipriate allen wrench. Unfortunately I can't access my 164 cd since I updated to MS Vista. Terry

**Alfisto Steve** · #4 (**permalink**) 11-22-2007, 06:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TerryJ

Steve,

I am not sure what you mean by an allen stock/allen stock adapter. I do have approipriate allen wrench. Unfortunately I can't access my 164 cd since I updated to MS Vista. Terry

TerryJ · #5 (**permalink**) 11-22-2007, 07:23 AM

Okay. I do have the appropriate hex socket and adapter. It is an 8mm. Can't seem to break the bolt from the nut with my air wrench. Quess it is not powerful enough. Maybe I should use a the old army method of a braker bar and a big hammer. Something to ponder on the way to and fro to Boise for Thanksgiving! Steve, Have a great Thanksgiving, Terry!

AlexGS · #6 (**permalink**) 11-23-2007, 07:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TerryJ

Okay. I do have the appropriate hex socket and adapter. It is an 8mm. Can't seem to break the bolt from the nut with my air wrench. Quess it is not powerful enough. Maybe I should use a the old army method of a braker bar and a big hammer. Something to ponder on the way to and fro to Boise for Thanksgiving! Steve, Have a great Thanksgiving, Terry!

MrT · #7 (**permalink**) 11-23-2007, 07:47 AM

I purchased an 8 mm Allen drive bit for a 3/8" drive. But it is subtly wrong (too small) and will damage the internals of these socket head screws. Do not trust all manufacturers. I typically use the standard Allen wrenches for initial loosening and final tightening. I clean the screw internal socket with brake cleaner (don't blow it into your eyes) and insert the wrench carefully, resting the long part of the wrench against the P.S. pump for right hand side or the subframe, as appropriate, and then turn the wheel with a cheater bar pushing against two of the lug bolts inserted into their mounting holes. This has worked for me. IIRC the torque spec on the CV flange bolts is only 45 ft lb or so. They are trapped NyLoc nuts and should not be backing off for any reason, so installing with excessive torque would not appear to be a Good Thing.

**Alfisto Steve** · #8 (**permalink**) 11-23-2007, 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TerryJ

Okay. I do have the appropriate hex socket and adapter. It is an 8mm. Can't seem to break the bolt from the nut with my air wrench. Quess it is not powerful enough. Maybe I should use a the old army method of a braker bar and a big hammer. Something to ponder on the way to and fro to Boise for Thanksgiving! Steve, Have a great Thanksgiving, Terry!

drubie · #9 (**permalink**) 11-25-2007, 06:27 PM

For what it's worth, I bought a very cheap set of long handled allen wrenches ($12AUD) from the local auto parts shop. They have a reasonable amount of give in them, but not enough that they snap off in your hand. They made pretty quick work of the CV bolts as there was more room to move without a big 1/2" driver head in the way. Slow, steady pressure and lots of leverage (and clean out the heads of grease and dirt). Worked for me.

TerryJ · #10 (**permalink**) 12-14-2007, 11:13 AM

I finally gave up as I could not get the hex nuts loose. I took it over to the local Midas Shop which has some pretty good mechanics. They did it differently. The mechanic peeled the torn boot back and removed a C clip that hele the axle into the hub and voila the axle shaft was disconnected from the hub and the boot replaced. If this happens again I will try that. Cost was only $85. Terry

AlexGS · #11 (**permalink**) 12-15-2007, 05:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TerryJ

I finally gave up as I could not get the hex nuts loose. I took it over to the local Midas Shop which has some pretty good mechanics. They did it differently. The mechanic peeled the torn boot back and removed a C clip that hele the axle into the hub and voila the axle shaft was disconnected from the hub and the boot replaced. If this happens again I will try that. Cost was only $85. Terry

TerryJ · #12 (**permalink**) 12-15-2007, 07:07 AM

It was the hex nuts I could not get off. Tried with a ratchet, air wrench, and breaker bar that was about 20 inches long. No luck. He definitly took off a c clip that secured the hub to the axle and did not remove the half shaft. Terry

MrT · #13 (**permalink**) 12-15-2007, 08:19 AM

I know that I'll be looking over the assembly drawings in the manual to understand what happened. This sounds easier than pulling the whole hub, etc, off. I presume that the new boot was the last thing fixed in place on reassembly?

Michael

ChazzyD · #14 (**permalink**) 12-15-2007, 07:12 PM

As Steve said, the nuts DO NOT LOOSEN only the bolts until you loosen them far enough and then the nuts can turn. They are kept from turning because they are held in place by the closeness of their proximity to the center of the hub. This is on purpose so you do not have to hold them with a wrench. Make since? You have to use an allen head socket and a breaker bar to remove the large allen bolts. They are supposed to be tight quite BTW, or they can come loose and that is not a good thing (grease comes out for one). Glad you got it fixed but you will know for next time.

Charles

MrT · #15 (**permalink**) 12-15-2007, 07:19 PM

Charles, I suspect miscommunication here. It would be unlikely for someone to be attempting to undo the nuts from the back side of the flange with a 20 inch breaker bar. I don't see how one could get at the nuts with such a bar. Just like my work -- when something doesn't make sense, I'm usually misinterpreting someone else's info (but sometimes it's the other person misinterpreting or mis-stating an observation).