4-Cam Head Removal.

[Alfisto Steve]

Yes, driven gear comes off with head as it is straight splined to oil pump shaft. If you do send head out for rework pop out gear and save it until head comes back so it doesn't get lost. Drive gear will stay attached to aux shaft. Since aux shaft has an easily broken locking tab (but hard to buy) for inner end nut I leave shaft in head unless there is some up or down play in bushing. You can pull shaft oil seal with a seal puller and replace it with aux shaft in place. Just oil up aux shaft and bushings real good after head repaired before installing head.

Test driven gear lock nut on oil pump shaft and replace it if self locking feature worn out.

[john.harrill]

The rear head is off.
I did not have to raise the engine off the rear motor mount. The transmission mount is off and with the oil pump cog and the rear exhaust cam out of the head, and the false firewall removed, there was enough room the pull it off.

I will be contacting someone this week to arrange for the head work. In the mean time, Can someone recommend what and how to clean the on the block? Certainly the mating surfaces will need to be cleaned.

BTW: Both head gaskets, when removed, began to flake into many pieces. I can see daylight therough one where I shouldn't be able to.

[Alfisto Steve]

Be sure you lock down cylinder liners as discussed earlier before you move crankshaft with heads off using big washers tubings and head washers/nuts.

You can clean up tops of cylinder liners, top of block with gasket scrapers and scotch brite pads, etc.

[MrT]

When I clean the water pump mounting surface, as an example of another flat mating surface, I use a razor scraper or a new (non-burred) painter's tool _very_ _carefully_ and have had only happy results. Just remember aluminum isn't as forgiving as glass when it comes to scrapers. When I cleaned up the surfaces on Claudia's "new" engine, I used Scotchbrite. But you might not want to get that stuff anywhere near an engine you can't hose out thoroughly afterward.

Your engine situation raises ugly questions, like

1) are you going to trust liner O-rings that are probably 14 yrs old?

2) when you R&R the liner O-rings, aren't you going to treat the 140k mile engine to replacement rings and hone the liners?

3) How's your oil pump after 140 k miles?

4) Why not do the bearings while you're there?

5) and I've heard good things about 3.5L conversions

6) doesn't that car need a limited slip unit in the diff? Maybe you could swap in a Q4 transmission and transfer case while you're at it? I hear they're available from Europe.

7)...

[john.harrill]

yep. I have PVC and washers and a piece of aluminum bar on the head studs to hold the liners in. Pictures are coming soon.

I used my ShopVac the suck out the coolant and gasket pieces. I'll try the ScotchBrite and a brass-bristle brush.
And carb cleaner. I love that stuff. I borrowed a small steam cleaner and tried it on one of the heads. It worked okay, but carb cleaner just cuts through everything.

As for the cylinder O rings: I can't ponder (afford) anything beyond the heads right now.

[MrT]

Watch the Scotchbrite stuff, as I _believe_ that it leaves behind a nasty abrasive powder residue. I don't know what its abrasive compound really is, chemically, but I don't like the idea of abrasive power entrained in my oil.

[Alfisto Steve]

Quote:

Originally Posted by john.harrill yep. I have PVC and washers and a piece of aluminum bar on the head studs to hold the liners in. Pictures are coming soon. I used my ShopVac the suck out the coolant and gasket pieces. I'll try the ScotchBrite and a brass-bristle brush. And carb cleaner. I love that stuff. I borrowed a small steam cleaner and tried it on one of the heads. It worked okay, but carb cleaner just cuts through everything. As for the cylinder O rings: I can't ponder (afford) anything beyond the heads right now.

[john.harrill]

The machinist I have used in the past has retired (Passed away, actually).

Does anyone know of a good one in NC?
To minimize the risk of shipping them I would like to find someone local/regional.

[john.harrill]

The machinist who so capably served the rebuild of my Giulietta 28 (!) years ago is alive and still working. He has his own shop and a few employees. So the 164's heads are there.

They are installing the new valves and stem seals and, although completion is not immanent, it won't be long before I have the heads back.

Anyone have experiance with a head gasket set? Although the set won't contain everything I need, I want to replace as many of the following gaskets as possible:

Head
Cam cover
Head-to-exhaust mainfold
Exhaust manifold-to-downpipe
Head-to-intake manifold
Intake manifold-to-runners
Throttle-to-plenum
The 3 gaskets atop the water pump

[MrT]

If you get either a GuarnitAuto set from IAP or an ADJUSA set (find link on the alfabb) you will have everything but the "exhaust manifold to downpipe" gasket, which you can order separately for not many $. DiFatta may also have something worthwhile, and the Corteco set from RockAuto is another low-$ option. The AR set is probably available, but I do not know its cost and I haven't inquired about its on-the-shelf status. None of these sets is likely to include the later metal extended gasket for the water pump, and you'll have to order it separately. I know DiFatta carries it.

Michael

The AJUSA set is mentioned in this thread,

V6 Head Gasket Questions

pointing to this vendor:

http://www.importperformanceparts.ne...sket-alfa.html

and for V6 Alfa engines they only list a Milano 3.0L set. It may not be compatible with the 24V V6. But there is something to be said for continuing doing business with the established Alfa vendors like DiFatta, IAP, Vicks, Centerline, as well as more recent ones like Alfissimo.

[PTnyc]

If you took photos of whatever you rigged up to lock down the cylinder liners, could you post them? I'm about to start that step and could use some help on what worked.

[jhutton]

when i reaplced my read head gasket last year i didn't lock down the cylinder heads, my brother figures since the crank wasn't turned, the piston liners should have stayed in place. it dosen't apear that there is any oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil so do you guys think i am safe. i hope the alfa gods are looking out for me. we also used a copper spray on the matting surfaces of the head gasket, my brother usses it on all engine rebuilds and says it helps to fill in the tiny imperfections in the block and head. we polished the block and head with a air grinding tool with a fine grit. i also do this on water pumps and have gotten great results with it
thanks

[MrT]

How do you keep the grit out of the engine? When the heads are off, the grit can drop into the engine and be carried all around by the oil, with unpleasant consequences. I don't get abrasives anywhere near open parts of an engine unless it is in such shape that I can clean it afterward (like totally disassembled).

Michael

[john.harrill]

My machinist had the heads in the "bath" on Friday, so they should be ready for me on Monday. I had him replace all the exhaust studs, as some had come out when I pulled the heads.

I have the head gasket set and it seems to contain everything I need. Buying the set is a bargain compared to getting all the piece separately.

Question:
I am anxious to get the heads on and do a compression test. After installing the heads, cam wheels, timing belt, tensioner and timing the cams, could I test compression without the intake and exhaust attached?

[Alfisto Steve]

Quote:

Originally Posted by john.harrill My machinist had the heads in the "bath" on Friday, so they should be ready for me on Monday. I had him replace all the exhaust studs, as some had come out when I pulled the heads. I have the head gasket set and it seems to contain everything I need. Buying the set is a bargain compared to getting all the piece separately. Question: I am anxious to get the heads on and do a compression test. After installing the heads, cam wheels, timing belt, tensioner and timing the cams, could I test compression without the intake and exhaust attached?