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Old 01-08-2007, 07:59 PM
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164 Suspension & Mount issues

Hey All,

While lenard (164Family) and I were changing suspension components on the 164, one of the things we came across were not being able to get the new sway bar bushings that go on either side of the A arm on. The old cracked ones were compressed and thus not doing their job, but these new ones seem too thick. Is there a trick of compressing them enough to get the bolt and cup on and tighten them? I don't want to shave some rubber off them.

Also, while removing the passenger's side A arm, both long bolts holding the top of the A stripped. Can I just go to a hardware store and buy new bolts? Anyone have some laying around?

The dog bone mounts are still giving me trouble, I bought a jigsaw that cut through part of the outer metal bushing, but should I cut it in two places?

I took some pictures of the process, but I'll post them later when it's all done.

It definitely helps to have a good set of CRAFTSMAN air tools and a good friend to work on these beasts.

Cheers!
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Old 01-08-2007, 10:42 PM
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Your welcome anytime!

I did not get home till after 3am and I slept till 2pm. Oh I do that all the time.
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Old 01-08-2007, 11:37 PM
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Hitting all the bolts you need to loosen up with some PB Blaster always helps a day or two before tackling a project. As for the dogbone mounts, cutting the outer housing of the mount (not the par that its pressed into) should give enough slack to make it come out. You might want to invest in a cheap press for that job or future jobs, they come in handy. If you are still stuck trying to get it out let me know, my buddy has a press in san jose in his garage, that will definately get it out!
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Old 01-09-2007, 11:33 AM
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Cutting the dogbone

For replacing the dogbone large end bushing, I made a single cut across the metal with a cutoff wheel. Then I drove a flat screwdriver into the cut to spread the metal. I liberally sprayed a penetrant around the bushing, and used a large tie-rod end tool pushing on a flat washer and some spacers to press the bushing out. Installation of the new bushing was similar- coat with slippery stuff and press into place. Then I used the welder to spot weld the metal back together and fill the cut. Finally, I painted the metal to prevent any ugly surface rust.
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Old 01-09-2007, 01:37 PM
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See below:

Quote:
Originally Posted by elite38868 View Post
Hey All,

While lenard (164Family) and I were changing suspension components on the 164, one of the things we came across were not being able to get the new sway bar bushings that go on either side of the A arm on. The old cracked ones were compressed and thus not doing their job, but these new ones seem too thick. Is there a trick of compressing them enough to get the bolt and cup on and tighten them? I don't want to shave some rubber off them.
You need to remove the whole bracket, then slide on the new mount. Place the bracket over the mount and screw the two bolts in the back first, then push down on the front of the bracket and fit the other bolt. tighten back to front little by little to get it even.
Also, while removing the passenger's side A arm, both long bolts holding the top of the A stripped. Can I just go to a hardware store and buy new bolts? Anyone have some laying around?
You may be able to pick them up at a specility bolt house otherwise I will have some good used ones soon.

The dog bone mounts are still giving me trouble, I bought a jigsaw that cut through part of the outer metal bushing, but should I cut it in two places?
You only need 1 cut then hit it out

I took some pictures of the process, but I'll post them later when it's all done.

It definitely helps to have a good set of CRAFTSMAN air tools and a good friend to work on these beasts.

Cheers!
Jason
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Old 01-09-2007, 01:46 PM
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You should be able to mount the new swaybar end bushings without doing any cutting. The last time I did this job, it wasn't bad. Maybe I squeezed the assy with big pliers or vicegrips as I threaded the nut on the bolt. Anyway, I don't remember any problems. Sure you got the right ones?
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Old 01-09-2007, 05:50 PM
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Well, one thing down:

What I did was shaved the bottom rubber bushing just slightly. I figured it wouldn't make that much of a difference and that did the trick. I went to ACE hardware and got new identical matching metric bolts with lock-bolt and washer for $2.

Now, for the engine dog-bone mount, I'm going to try using a large C clamp.
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Old 01-09-2007, 08:25 PM
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Are those bolts strong enough for suspension duty? Just a thought, I would be a little worried, but I guess most the force goes on the bushing and the bolt just holds it in place. Lenard told me how much fun you guys had taking those bolts off, sounds like a shady tree mechanic did something under there at some point. Wish I could have come down, it would have been fun! Best of luck,
Jon
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Old 01-10-2007, 02:02 AM
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The sway bar bushings needs a little helps to compress them enough to get the nut started. I needed up using the swiss screwdriver to assist me by prying down a little on the top of the sway bar.

The dog bone big bushing is a pain. I used a dremel to cut the sleeve on one side to break its lock on the housing. Even with a 20 Ton press, pressing the new bushing in is a bit tricky.
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Old 01-10-2007, 03:49 AM
Alfisto Steve Alfisto Steve is offline
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Sean on those suspension bolts what head marking was on them and on new ones you got? Are you talking about to bolts in front that hold small T-bar bushing to sub frame. If new bolts a 8.8 grade or better you should be OK.
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Old 01-10-2007, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elite38868 View Post
Well, one thing down:

What I did was shaved the bottom rubber bushing just slightly. I figured it wouldn't make that much of a difference and that did the trick. I went to ACE hardware and got new identical matching metric bolts with lock-bolt and washer for $2.

Now, for the engine dog-bone mount, I'm going to try using a large C clamp.
Sean,
Did you read my reply? Here is the problem you will face later as some have pointed out. Bolts not up to standard. If they are longer that may go through the bottom of the sheet metal and hit the rear a-arm.
The other problem I see is that the bushing will fail faster now. It will (may) become loose in the clamp later on.

Like I mentioned you have to compress the bushing down little by little. Use the method Del said. That method works well. You have to put the clamp on the rear and pull it over the bushing and bolt in the front, then tighten back to front until clamp is tight.

Just trying to help so you don't have to do it over.
J
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