Steve -- i think it was you in another post that has a bad 95 compressor. i have on that is good but the threads on the back got broke ( one of that many things that broke during the shipment of my second engine) i was wondering if you have ever taken these apart and if i would be possible to fix my broken one, never hurts to have a spare

 

I have taken SD-508 shorty from a Milano apart but not a SD-709. However, shaft seals are the same for both so maybe some other parts are too. If you want to ship it to me for possible repair let me know I have 2 or 3 SD-709 cores with no broken pieces but with noisy bearings etc inside.

I have the SD-508 shorty still apart. Have a regular SD-508 from a Fiat Brava 2000 too.

 

hi steve I'm looking for the bushing for the a/c compressor mounting bracket two on each side

 

When my a/c compressor went (the clutch bit) I had it sent off and rebuilt. Can't remember the details of what company did the rebuilding but when I got it back it was as good as new.

 

i will think about that steve -- when i get my car up and running again. i will have alot of free time. its crazy that i don't have the time to undo a couple of bolts to get the a/c comppressor off my spare engine.
oh well, life goes on

thanks for the offer

 

Disaaasembling clutch from SD-709 164 A/C compressor.

First off if coil is still good hook up a battery charger or 12v battery to engage clutch so you can hold pulley with your hand or strap wrench to get nut off shaft end. If you have a air impact gun you can use that too to remove only (do not use to install unless it is a low power 3/8" model).

Once nut off install a triangle puller with 3 small 1/4"x20 tpi coarse thread pitch bolts about 3 inches long and center pusher bolt to pop of clutch plate from shaft.

Next remove snap ring for pulley and install 3-legged pulley to remove pulley.

Once pulley off remove snap ring for bearing and drive old bearing out.

If coil bad or you just want to remove it, loosen clamp holding coil wire bracket to case and remove snap ring inside coil and remove coil.

 

Installing new bearing in A/C pulley and reassembling clutch onto compressor:

If you have a hydraulic press use it to install bearing but if not you can use a hammer and large socket as I did.

I also used battery charger and strap wrench to help me hold clutch when I torque nut to about 20 ft lb

 

Changing SD-709 Compressor Shaft Seals

I also have the tools to change front seal in compressors both SD-508 shorty, SD-508 regular and SD-709 I will cover that later when I too have time and need to do that job again.

Well, did a Alfa 164 SD-709 Sanden compressor shaft seal replacement and will add some info and pictures here.

I used two piece shaft seal assembly 52553 from Harold Electric Co (HECO) and their tools 91139 and 90908 to remove and install seals.

Still remove clutch pulley the same way as previous pictures.

Once pulley off you have to pull out dust seal wiper, woodruff key in crankshaft, clutch plate shims if installed and inner snap ring. Now you use 91139 tool to remove outer seal and oring assembly. Next you use tool 90908 to remove spring loaded inner seal assembly.

Clean up crankshaft and seal area with some spray like brake cleaner spray and blow dry with compressed air.
Install new inner seal assembly on tool 90908 and oil seal good with Ester oil and install seal.

BE SURE TO NOTE FLATS INSIDE SPRING LOADED SEAL METAL HOUSING AND FLATS ON COMPRESSOR CRANKSHAFT DOWN INSIDE COMPRESSOR. YOU MUST LINE UP FLATS SO SEAL HOUSING WILL ENGAGE CRANKSHAFT FLATS CORRECTLY OR YOU WIOLL BREAK SEAL WHEN PUSING INTO COMPRESSOR.

Follow this up with outer seal on tool 91139 and oiled good with Ester oil. reinstall inner snap ring to hold seals in place.

Reinstall clutch plate shims, woodruff key and dust seal wiper (clean and reuse if new one not included with two-part 52553 set assembly).

See this post later in this thread for more pictures: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/showpost.php?p=379446&postcount=29

 

Steve,
What has been you experiences with these compressors in terms of what causes failure?

My compressor leaks at the shaft. I was told by our one Alfa shop in the Twin Cities that they have not had luck replacing the seal. They say it will work for a little while and then start leaking again. They recommend buying a new compressor.

It would be nice to have AC again some day.

 

I have replaced shaft seals on two Milano SD-508 shorty compressors for my car (now sold) and my friends and as far as I know they both still work fine but I will email them to be sure.

Both 508 shorty and 709 use same shaft seal.

 

I have replaced shaft seals on two Milano SD-508 shorty compressors for my car (now sold) and my friends and as far as I know they both still work fine but I will email them to be sure.

Both 508 shorty and 709 use same shaft seal.

Good write DIY.

One suggestion to all if they plan on doing this for summer. Also replace compressor stablizer bushings on bracket.

I have found that a lot of 164's, tend to have bushings that are falling apart. The compressor can then run a bit off thus wearing on the bearings a bit more. I am looking for a Poly substitute for these bushings.

Also watch the belt tension as we all know so that it also does not wear too much on the idler as well as the compressor.

May want to have the compressor check for black death as well, have system cleaned out and all parts/filters replaced for optimum life and effeciency!

But if heads are warpped then a new compressor is the only way to go.
I will have brand new compressors available soon at a very good price.

I shall be doing this in JUNE!

Also model numbers can vary widely with Sanden. I for example have a 4667 but some have 7641 7651 etc...
Small changes to the compressor changes the numbers. It is a very confusing thing that even sanden folks have no clue about ( well guys in the business for 30 yrs+) . lol!

Ciao!
Thanks Steve for the write up!!
Jason

 

One website I just checked listed 164 SD-709 models as 7454 and 7461. Model numbers confusing and has alot to do with type of clutch installed. On 12v V6 164 clutch pulley is known as a 7x5 grooved. Five grooves are for alternator belt and 7 are for water pump and compressor drive belt.

 

One website I just checked listed 164 SD-709 models as 7454 and 7461. Model numbers confusing and has alot to do with type of clutch installed. On 164 clutch pulley is known as a 7x5 grooved. Five grooves are for alternator belt and 7 are for water pump and compressor drive belt.

Yup, those model numbers as well. Just becareful some 709's have a different mount.
You can use R12 or R134 with these. Most of the new ones with oil in them are for r134. So you need to change the oil to be compatible with R12 if you have.

 

That is the same thing with the SD-508 regular and SD-508 shorty which I think is just a SD-507 with bigger piston displacement for more cooling in the GTV6, Milano and Series 4 spiders. Lugs are closer together on shorty.

 

Well, I just found out the same bearing for the 164 clutch pulley is also used on my neighbor's 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 P/U which uses a Sanden a/c compressor. I installed my spare Koya bearing on his compressor pulley and immediately ordered two more spares.

 

Well, I just found out the same bearing for the 164 clutch pulley is also used on my neighbor's 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 P/U which uses a Sanden a/c compressor. I installed my spare Koya bearing on his compressor pulley and immediately ordered two more spares.

Steve,

Just off hand since I will tackle my compressor tomorrow.
Do you have the bolt dimesions for the compressor for the harmonic puller?

I can take it down and find 3 blts but maybe you know off hand?

Thanks
Jason

 

Three bolts I use believe it or not are from a GE washing machine shipping plate to hold transmission solid. However COMMA They appear to be 1/4" X 20 tpi coarse thread pitch and about 1 1/2" long to work with my triangle puller shown in pictures.

 

Three bolts I use believe it or not are from a GE washing machine shipping plate to hold transmission solid. However COMMA They appear to be 6mm 1.50 coarse thread pitch and about 1 1/2" long to work with my triangle puller shown in pictures.

Grazie Steve!
JASON

 

Hi,

I dont want to hijack your A/C compressor DIY thread, but would like to get some help on diagnosing my A/C problem. This is the sequence how it went down in its performance from time to time -

It blowed really cold and looked working great when I bought the car. It was like that for say 3 weeks and from then it slowly went down on its cooling effect and at around the same time I started hearing squealing sound from the engine whenever I switch on the Automatic climate control (switching on the A/C) and it barely blows cold air (eventhough it blows cold air its not cold enough). I can tell that it is not functioning how it is suppose to be. I checked it closely yesterday and the compressor squeals whenever the a/c clutch engages and smooths down after sometime of running the engine. I checked through the glass indicator on the side of the receiver-drier and it was clear (maybe empty, can't say exactly).

So, what will you suggest me on this. Are there any other places or parts that I can check for malfunction?? If I recharge the system, does it rectify all the problems (BTW its previous owner DanP, told me that he has recharged it a week before he sold it to me).

I really appreciate for any input/suggestions you can give me.

thanks,
-Pavan

 

Alfa Romeo 164 A/C Compressor for 91-93 12v V6 model

94-95 similiar but type maybe different as it uses R134a

Don't have readable label to get model number right now.

Type SD-709
Uses R12 Freon but maybe converted to R134a
Model -
Coil - C4J05J
Pulley - RCA04R
Clutch - 48K05I
Bearing - Koyo 83A694
New bearing part # DAC35552RD3XS1CS33

Another option for the bearing is: NSK 35BD219T12VV-CG33

JASON

 

Another option for the bearing is: NSK 35BD219T12VV-CG33

JASON

Where can we order these bearing(s) and the new type belt that steve is talking about??

Is it good enough to use the bearing that auto stores provide for our cars?? like ready aire bearing??

thanks,
-Pavan

 

Hi,

You can order through NSK or through KAMAN industries, or Applied technologies.

Not sure what auto stores supply but it maybe the same or not?

Brand is www.nsk.com, made in japan.

I am searching for an another alternative bearing to replace these, a roller type bearing. Similar to input shaft bearing on manual transmission but sealed of course.
Stronger and longer lasting.
But I do have new non-sanden compressors coming in that will last much longer and provide cooler air when used with our P-flow condensers.



Belt you have to ask Steve. Not sure what belt you mean??

This is the type of belt Steve is talkin abt.. "I recommend you replace belt if straight 7 ribbed variety with Dayco 5070425 cross-hatch design so you don't have to over tension belt to keep it from squealing."
The bearing type and model is same supplied by all auto stores.. Ready-Aire in 2 models Sd508 and Sd709. I am having a harmonic balancer, is that enough to complete this job (apart all the other wrenches )??

thanks,
-Pavan.

 

This is the type of belt Steve is talkin abt.. "I recommend you replace belt if straight 7 ribbed variety with Dayco 5070425 cross-hatch design so you don't have to over tension belt to keep it from squealing."
The bearing type and model is same supplied by all auto stores.. Ready-Aire in 2 models Sd508 and Sd709. I am having a harmonic balancer, is that enough to complete this job (apart all the other wrenches )??

thanks,
-Pavan.

OK, I carry dayco belts. That is all I use. You can try any dayco dealer for the belt. I agree, do not over tension, just enough to not make it squealing. This will lesson tension on bearings, water pump and alternator. I have used the same water pump for over 5 years now since I only tension belt like above.

Hope that helps?

Jason

 

This is the type of belt Steve is talkin abt.. "I recommend you replace belt if straight 7 ribbed variety with Dayco 5070425 cross-hatch design so you don't have to over tension belt to keep it from squealing."
The bearing type and model is same supplied by all auto stores.. Ready-Aire in 2 models Sd508 and Sd709. I am having a harmonic balancer, is that enough to complete this job (apart all the other wrenches )??

thanks,
-Pavan.

OK, I carry dayco belts.

That is all I use and provide. I use both these and regular serpentines. You can try any dayco dealer for the belt. I agree, do not over tension, just enough to not make it squealing. This will lesson tension on bearings, water pump and alternator. I have used the same water pump for over 5 years now since I only tension belt like above.

bearing should be fine. Not familar with ready-aire. Sure they are fine. Most likely made by SKF anyway although I could not find an SKF bearing in this size?? More research needed.
Hope that helps?

Jason

 

I will try to find the NSK bearing you suggested at the dealers around here (listed on NSK site). If they do, I will get one and will try to do this job this weekend. But the temperatures are hitting 3 digits over here, I dont know if I will be able to complete this job or not, but will try since I badly need my a/c at present. BTW whats the cost of that NSk bearing?

thanks,
-Pavan.

 

See this site and their CB-9703 part number for cross reference for other clutch pulley bearing part numbers for our 164 compressors:
http://www.polarbearinc.com/PBPC/homepage/product_Bearings.html

My supplier Applied Technologies charges me about $27 plus shipping for KOYO New bearing part # DAC35552RD3XS1CS33 they get out of KOYO warehouse in IN. It replaces original Koya part number 83A694 I found on bearing I replaced.