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Old 12-14-2005, 02:11 PM
75evo 75evo is offline
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Guys,

Henry asked for a price and some gave a not so polite answer...and you expect to get a very polite reply? Let's get real here. Don't like the question? Just skip it.

Henry,

I'm pretty sure an enthusiast will pay more than $10K for your car. A good 164S still sells for around $5K at least. I'm sure a REALLY super mint S with euro upgrades can fetch upto $7K. I would, if it had all the right upgrades.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 12-14-2005, 05:17 PM
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junglejustice junglejustice is offline
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YEah! So a Q is well worth the 10 or more for a clean low mile one...

Todd, no, I did not get the VM - will go and check v-mail now...
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 12-14-2005, 05:42 PM
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Sell?? That is a 4 letter word! Trust me, considering there are only 30 or so of these 95 Q's around, you will regret later that you sold it. This is a very nice car. It is quieter than my 97 Acura 3.5 RL and gets as good or better mileage. I can't imagine selling a Q unless there is a family medical or financial situation that would preclude such an event.
I would imagine that you can get $7K-10K for your car if you REALLY want to sell it. The longer time it takes for Alfa Romeo to come to the USA (if ever) the more value the Q has in my opinion just because it is the last ones and special editions compared to the LS of which there are more of.
My Q is currently down for CV joint rebuilding and prepping for the car shows coming in the spring. I can't wait to drive my car again!
Christopher Boles
1995 Q
1965 Spider Veloce
1967 Super
1971 GTV
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Old 12-14-2005, 06:36 PM
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quadrifoglio quadrifoglio is offline
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It would be foolish to take less than $12K for that car. The people that don't think it's worth that much aren't the ones that would buy it anyway.

You should keep it though. They tend to grow on you over time to the point where you just can't seem to bring yourself to selling them. No matter how badly they piss on your feet.
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Cincinnati
'04 Jetta GLS 1.8t
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[SIZE="1"]Past Cars in order of appearance:
1965 Sunbeam Alpine IV
1983 Spider Veloce
1985 GTV-6
1987 Spider Quadrifoglio Verde
1986 Spider Veloce
1990 VW Corrado G60
1994 164 Quadrifoglio Verde
2000 BMW 323i
1994 164 Quadrifoglio Verde
1995 164 Quadrifoglio Verde[/SIZE]
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Old 12-14-2005, 10:55 PM
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henryfifteen henryfifteen is offline
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OK.. i'M SOLD.... I aint selling it!!! After the rug got ripped out from underneath me after I bought it I was a bit skittish that it might do that again... but what the hell.. I'm just going to go out and buy a decent daily driver so I don't have to worry about racking up boring miles on this awesome car... I have to admit that it does put a fat sh*t eating grin on my face to hear that motor hit 7k....

Quad... it grew on me to the hilt the first time I drove it... but every time I get in it i hear the timing belt breaking!!! It's like a bad acid trip w/ mucho flashbacks... But after this counseling session I'm just going to have faith in the damn thing... it is one of the most enjoyable cars I've ever driven...quirks and all.... imagine a front wheel drive car that oversteers!???!!!

Thanks to all for the advice and comentary...
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 12-14-2005, 11:39 PM
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AR4me AR4me is offline
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Way to go!

Now, for a daily driver, why not keep it fun? Perhaps a "simple" Alfa with less to break. I would suggest a GTV6 - no ABS brakes, no power steering rack, less complex electronics. Replace the L-jet with GoTech for $600-$700 and you have a reliable car that won't let you down. Learn to do water pump and timing belt yourself, and it shouldn't kill you on maintenance. Hey, I think I could sell this idea to your wife...

Jes
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2005, 01:04 AM
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Jes-Jes-Jes - we can't all get away with selling new “upgraded bumpers” as part of “routine maintenance” to our wives now... Todd, if need be though; the GTV6 sounds like a great idea – I made this offer to Fred Wright a bit ago – you keep “your” toys at my house and the I keep “my” toys at your house! That way, whenever the question comes up – “…hey! It’s not mine honey…”) Whenever you want to see one of your “babies” – “…honey! I’m headed over to __________’s place to go work on a car…”

No lies here…

Todd, bring the Q by on Saturday (including 12 bottles of imported European beer in green bottles) and we’ll quickly pull those covers off, check the belt, rotate it a few times and check the slack in a few places and call it good!

I need to do the same for my new 164 LS since I (as you) cringe each-time that I wind her up. We can also settle that little drag-race issue (before the beers) performed on a closed-circuit by professional stunt-men! We’ll switch-out a bit too… (Cars – not wives…)
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2005, 07:40 AM
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Mistalava Mistalava is offline
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Top to bottom engine rebuild at 124k??? If this was truly necessary, it's a sign of very poor maintenance. I would look hard at other areas of the car.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2005, 09:07 AM
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henryfifteen henryfifteen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mistalava
Top to bottom engine rebuild at 124k??? If this was truly necessary, it's a sign of very poor maintenance. I would look hard at other areas of the car.

the car was actually well looked after... but one of the idler pullies sezied up which snapped the t-belt.... I had only had the car for a week and put less than 100miles on it... had an appt on monday to have the t-belt replaced and it broke sunday.....it's LONG story... took almost a year to get it back on the road...
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former 82 GTV-6 (will have another one soon)
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2005, 10:18 AM
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Mistalava Mistalava is offline
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Wow, what terrible luck. I hope you plan on keeping the car. Rebuilding the heads is normal when the timing belts go. The bottom ends on these engines are extremely robust, so it was the "top to bottom" reference that threw me.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2005, 10:50 AM
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henryfifteen henryfifteen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mistalava
Wow, what terrible luck. I hope you plan on keeping the car. Rebuilding the heads is normal when the timing belts go. The bottom ends on these engines are extremely robust, so it was the "top to bottom" reference that threw me.

Well... new rings... new main bearings... was about all that was done.. the first mechanic that had the car screwed it up and that made the work to the bottom end necessary...
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former 82 GTV-6 (will have another one soon)
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2005, 12:12 PM
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junglejustice junglejustice is offline
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Yeah, whenever you pull the heads on one of these things, the very 1st thing that you want to do (before even setting the heads down ) is to place some liner-retainers on about 2 or 3 of the head-studs (per bank...) - Basically just large-large washers to hold the sleeves firmly in place.

There are these thin rubber o-rings around the bottom of each liner that keeps the engine block water and coolant from seeping down into the crank-case oil! (Amazing that there is not that much there to separate ultimate enjoyment from pure pain... Once in place though, you're good!

When you are simply doing a top rebuild (valves etc - in the case of Todd and I) you don't want those puppies to move at all! The slightest movement means removing the liners (as well as the sump, crank, pistons/rings/rods etc...), slipping new o-rings on and cleaning up the seats in the block! At that point you have the stuff right in your hands and you may as well do rings and bearings too! (This is what happened to Todd at shop #1...) The job became a bottom-end rebuild too because retainers were not used after the heads were removed!

It is an easy mistake to make (especially with a manual transmission car...) It's sitting there in the shop - maybe in gear to avoid rolling - the heads are off and away for rebuilding or whatever, somebody wants to move the car and starts to push/nudge/bump the car - the tranny is engaged, so the pistons move ever so slightly -sticking to the liners and moving them - it is all over at that point. The seal (as in locked-shut) breaks, debris gets in-between the liner and the block and now after re-assembly you have water seeping down (under cooling system pressures around 8 to 15 pounds of pressure per square inch) in to your engine oil) since the o-rings were probably old and rady to be replaced once damaged.

The same thing can happen on an automatic car (less likely), but when somebody comes along and accidentally cranks the key - thinking that it is a driver - the liners can move too! REmove th battery cables when doing pretty much anything!

Another thing; "...’n jags ou..." (or what we would call a helluva horny guy) with long fingers can get down in there around the outside of the liners – pistons still in place – and clean up those seats at the bottom of the sleeves – take a chance - slip those o-rings (lubed up) over the top of the sleeves and roll them down around the outside of the liners and position them that way! Not for the faint of heart!
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2005, 08:25 PM
V8Alfa V8Alfa is offline
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Henry, you've got PM...
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2005, 10:06 PM
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jontg428 jontg428 is offline
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I agree Henry, keep the Q, you may never have the opportunity to have another, and it sounds like you got her sorted out pretty well. Good luck and look forward to hearing of some positive Q travels,

Jon
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