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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-02-2011, 03:18 PM
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Were you in stop and go traffic? What was the ambient temperature outside?

Could be your relief valve on the coolant tank not keeping the proper pressure i the system and thus lowering the boiling point and hense your overflow.
Could be a blown headgasket. Check the coolant for oil residue

Could be a tired old radiator, check the fins for flaking , if the flaking is greater than 20% of the fins then the radiator is probably not cooling down the engine very well, hense the boil over.

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-02-2011, 03:51 PM
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Check/replace cap.

Rob
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-02-2011, 04:53 PM
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Does your cooling fan run on low speed system or just high speed? What kind of reading are yoiu getting on temp gauge? Is car stock cooling configuration?

Cap can be bad and little coolant can bypass but if sensor float cap leaking sure it can be bad, too or have bad gasket but cap and sensor should not be bypassing if system is operating correctly.

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-03-2011, 06:05 AM
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Well maybe one of two things or both. Say system working as normal with good fan system, good engine thermostat and radiator OK.

Coolant cap relief valve stuck so thermal heat after shut down ends up forcing coolant by seal around sensor float shaft is original style with brass rod and "wine cork" style float or seal under retainer nut cracked or nut loose.

New style sensor floats a sensor float around a plastic support.

Inspect retainer nut gasket and if good try tightening sensor retainer nut on tank and if that doesn't stop it leak.

Coolant tank cap maybe OK if seals bad in sensor.

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-03-2011, 12:37 PM
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try bleeding the tstat

Given all the symptoms I might suspect a big ole air pocket somewhere given that what youve already tried

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-03-2011, 01:29 PM
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yeah you might have found it!

does the fan spin freely by hand? Even though your fan may be coming on, I wonder if its spinning at the designed RPM range- if its binding up at all, that might explain this whole thing

OR, you could have a bad/dirty connection to the fan that is showing up as a high resistance to the fan motor, which in turn will make the fan run slower. Fan relays are a suspect, but first I would check fan mechanical condition and connection to the fan motor

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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-03-2011, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mac D View Post
Goats:

Yeah, I was thinking of something like that. The air gets hot, expands and pushes the coolant out. But it would have to be a big pocket in order to almost displace the entire contents of the reservoir, and it would have to be trapped somewhere or else it would bubble out through the reservoir coolant. How do you get rid of such a gremlin if it is indeed the cause?

Another development: since changing filling caps it appears that the high-speed fan only is coming on. No low-speed. The temperature gauge is averaging higher than usual and when the fan finally does come on there's a big jump in the ammeter and a sensation that the fan is lurching into action.

Does that add anything to the equation?

Mac D
Yes it does. Check fan resistor in radiator fan shroud it maybe bad. Try bypassing it by hooking dark blue and brown wire to it together and see if you now get a higher fan speed at a lower temperature.

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Also gone are Old Blue 91 164L, Rosso1 93 164L, Rosso2 91 164S; QS2 164L

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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-04-2011, 04:11 PM
Del
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Steve wants to you to bypass the low speed resistor to be able to see if it is faulty. If the rest of the circuit is ok you will get a high speed fan when the thermal switch trips at the lower temperature setting, and of course, you will still get the high speed fan at the high temperature setting (of the thermal switch).

If the low speed fan thermal switch instead is faulty, you will get nothing for the low speed setting, and the high speed fan setting will work, or nothing will work as well at the high temp setting if that part of the switch is faulty as well.

Nothing to remove, just jumper wire the two wires together when they are removed from the resistor. Easy to reach.

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Last edited by Del; 06-04-2011 at 04:13 PM.
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