Alfa 164 - Alfisto Steve's Maintenance Tips - Page 5 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

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post #61 of 332 (permalink) Old 09-11-2010, 07:32 AM Thread Starter
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Pix of timing belt tensioners on alfa 164 12v V6 engines

Pictures of installed oil fed and mechanical timinb belt tensioners on alfa 164 12v V6 engines: Which Twin was born first

Ciao, Alfisto Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
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Daily drivers: USA models - 1991 164S Black Beauty II ALFISTO;

Daughter's current ride: BB1 my 164L and Her Granddads 2002 Ford Taurus is back up.

New parts hauler but not car hauler 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 4.7L H.O. V-8

Needing TLC non-blackbeast the 93 164L

"A day without an Alfa whine is like a day without sunshine"
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post #62 of 332 (permalink) Old 09-15-2010, 03:05 AM Thread Starter
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Info on 91-93 A/C panel and changing bulbs

Good thread/posts with link on removing a/c panel and replacing bulbs: HVAC Control panel

Ciao, Alfisto Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
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Daily drivers: USA models - 1991 164S Black Beauty II ALFISTO;

Daughter's current ride: BB1 my 164L and Her Granddads 2002 Ford Taurus is back up.

New parts hauler but not car hauler 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 4.7L H.O. V-8

Needing TLC non-blackbeast the 93 164L

"A day without an Alfa whine is like a day without sunshine"

Last edited by Alfisto Steve; 09-19-2010 at 06:22 PM.
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post #63 of 332 (permalink) Old 09-19-2010, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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Fuel line hose replacment Maintenance Tip

Gas line break and smoke from the left front hood

Thought this was a good tip to add to this sticky.

Ciao, Alfisto Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
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Daily drivers: USA models - 1991 164S Black Beauty II ALFISTO;

Daughter's current ride: BB1 my 164L and Her Granddads 2002 Ford Taurus is back up.

New parts hauler but not car hauler 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 4.7L H.O. V-8

Needing TLC non-blackbeast the 93 164L

"A day without an Alfa whine is like a day without sunshine"

Last edited by Alfisto Steve; 07-08-2011 at 01:14 AM.
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post #64 of 332 (permalink) Old 10-16-2010, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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Not just 164 but info on many Alfa models

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/anyt...somewhere.html

Ciao, Alfisto Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
AROC 164 Tech Advisor

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Daily drivers: USA models - 1991 164S Black Beauty II ALFISTO;

Daughter's current ride: BB1 my 164L and Her Granddads 2002 Ford Taurus is back up.

New parts hauler but not car hauler 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 4.7L H.O. V-8

Needing TLC non-blackbeast the 93 164L

"A day without an Alfa whine is like a day without sunshine"
Alfisto Steve is offline  
post #65 of 332 (permalink) Old 10-19-2010, 03:48 AM Thread Starter
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Procedure to reset 91-93 air bag light 164 and Spider

This procedure also works for 91-93 164 models and connector behind right side kick panel rug under dash in front of passenger door:

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spid...ht-spider.html

Ciao, Alfisto Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
AROC 164 Tech Advisor

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Daily drivers: USA models - 1991 164S Black Beauty II ALFISTO;

Daughter's current ride: BB1 my 164L and Her Granddads 2002 Ford Taurus is back up.

New parts hauler but not car hauler 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 4.7L H.O. V-8

Needing TLC non-blackbeast the 93 164L

"A day without an Alfa whine is like a day without sunshine"
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post #66 of 332 (permalink) Old 10-20-2010, 05:23 AM Thread Starter
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How to hold front seat mounting bolt anchor nuts in place

Help!!

Ciao, Alfisto Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
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Daily drivers: USA models - 1991 164S Black Beauty II ALFISTO;

Daughter's current ride: BB1 my 164L and Her Granddads 2002 Ford Taurus is back up.

New parts hauler but not car hauler 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 4.7L H.O. V-8

Needing TLC non-blackbeast the 93 164L

"A day without an Alfa whine is like a day without sunshine"
Alfisto Steve is offline  
post #67 of 332 (permalink) Old 10-21-2010, 03:33 AM Thread Starter
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Alfa 164 12v V6 Fuel, Air; Ignition System Test Specs

Resistance checks (approximate):
Sparkplug wires - 2.5 kΩ
Coil wire - 1 kΩ
Distributor rotor - 1.1 KΩ
Ignition coil primary small terminal to small terminal - 0.4 to 0.8Ω
Ignition coil secondary small terminal to coil wire tower - 5.4 to 6.6 kΩ
Coolant Temp Sensor cold - 20c/68F 3 kΩ hot - 110c/212F 200 Ω
RPM/Timing sensor - center terminal to one side terminal about .6 kΩ

Fuel system test:

Fuel pressure inlet side fuel rail with fuel pump running - 42-47 psi
If engine running disconnect fuel pressure regulator vac line to intake plenum

With engine running/idling and vac hose connected fuel press should drop about 7.3psi to 35-40 psi

Fuel flow - about 8oz in 15 seconds
__________________

Ciao, Alfisto Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
AROC 164 Tech Advisor

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Daily drivers: USA models - 1991 164S Black Beauty II ALFISTO;

Daughter's current ride: BB1 my 164L and Her Granddads 2002 Ford Taurus is back up.

New parts hauler but not car hauler 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 4.7L H.O. V-8

Needing TLC non-blackbeast the 93 164L

"A day without an Alfa whine is like a day without sunshine"
Alfisto Steve is offline  
post #68 of 332 (permalink) Old 11-11-2010, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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Alfa 164 Speedometer Senders P/N's

Alfa 164 speedo Senders p/n info:

For 5-speed models

Early 60508215*, SS 60800458 current superseding p/n 7624310

* euro connector so will have to splice old connector from 60800458/7624310 to it on USA models.

For A/T models

Early Euro 60511976" SS 60800459 current SS p/n 7624312

* suspect same issue with splicing later connector to it to use it.

Ciao, Alfisto Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
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Daily drivers: USA models - 1991 164S Black Beauty II ALFISTO;

Daughter's current ride: BB1 my 164L and Her Granddads 2002 Ford Taurus is back up.

New parts hauler but not car hauler 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 4.7L H.O. V-8

Needing TLC non-blackbeast the 93 164L

"A day without an Alfa whine is like a day without sunshine"
Alfisto Steve is offline  
post #69 of 332 (permalink) Old 11-28-2010, 06:26 AM Thread Starter
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Bleeding 164 Clutch slave and changing hose

Clutch slave cylinder replacement

Ciao, Alfisto Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
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Daily drivers: USA models - 1991 164S Black Beauty II ALFISTO;

Daughter's current ride: BB1 my 164L and Her Granddads 2002 Ford Taurus is back up.

New parts hauler but not car hauler 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 4.7L H.O. V-8

Needing TLC non-blackbeast the 93 164L

"A day without an Alfa whine is like a day without sunshine"
Alfisto Steve is offline  
post #70 of 332 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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Checking an high mileage Afa 164 12v engine condition

Today is the first day of the rest of my 164B's life and with 217,064 miles on the original engine it was time to check it's vital signs.

Here are my findings:

1. Using a direct reading oil pressure gauge hooked up to left head in place of red light sender I got the following readings:
oil pressure at 3000 RPM with engine at 210F got 50 psi.
oil pressure at hot idle 11 psi
oil pressure at about 150F engine temp at idle 40 psi

Cockpit gauge readings under power match direct reading gauge but at hot idle still goes to 0 psi.

2. Hot engine compression check with all spark plugs removed and throttle plate sloightly open:

1 - 210 psi
2 - 205 psi
3 - 205 psi
4 - 200 psi
5 - 205 psi
6 - 210 psi

3. sparkplug condition 2 oil fouled and 4 brownish color so guess two cylinders have leaking valve stem seals.

Timing belt was last changed 8-19-05 so engine has about 26,000 miles on timing belt.
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Ciao, Alfisto Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
AROC 164 Tech Advisor

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Daily drivers: USA models - 1991 164S Black Beauty II ALFISTO;

Daughter's current ride: BB1 my 164L and Her Granddads 2002 Ford Taurus is back up.

New parts hauler but not car hauler 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 4.7L H.O. V-8

Needing TLC non-blackbeast the 93 164L

"A day without an Alfa whine is like a day without sunshine"

Last edited by Alfisto Steve; 11-29-2010 at 03:45 PM.
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post #71 of 332 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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Pictures of plugs.
date and mileage log on TB cover add 30,000 miles for speedo change years ago.
My remote start set up using pin 1 in G151 connector behind false firewall to run compression test.
Still have some Mayo in valve cover so leaking head gasket weeping coolant into valve cover area.
Using Alfa 164 plug wrench from tool kit.
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Ciao, Alfisto Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
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Daily drivers: USA models - 1991 164S Black Beauty II ALFISTO;

Daughter's current ride: BB1 my 164L and Her Granddads 2002 Ford Taurus is back up.

New parts hauler but not car hauler 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 4.7L H.O. V-8

Needing TLC non-blackbeast the 93 164L

"A day without an Alfa whine is like a day without sunshine"
Alfisto Steve is offline  
post #72 of 332 (permalink) Old 12-19-2010, 03:25 AM Thread Starter
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Tool info - Bit sockets , Hex, Ribe and Torx

OTC now offers the broadest selection of Bit Sockets
on the market today. Hex, Ribe and of course TORX drive systems.

http://cache01.voyageurweb.com/otcto...er%20Flyer.pdf

Ciao, Alfisto Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
AROC 164 Tech Advisor

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Daily drivers: USA models - 1991 164S Black Beauty II ALFISTO;

Daughter's current ride: BB1 my 164L and Her Granddads 2002 Ford Taurus is back up.

New parts hauler but not car hauler 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 4.7L H.O. V-8

Needing TLC non-blackbeast the 93 164L

"A day without an Alfa whine is like a day without sunshine"
Alfisto Steve is offline  
post #73 of 332 (permalink) Old 12-22-2010, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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Alfa 164 exploded view of front and rear strut parts

These are taken from 164 shop manual:
Attached Images
File Type: pdf Alfa164strutsIPB074.pdf (1.11 MB, 405 views)

Ciao, Alfisto Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
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Daily drivers: USA models - 1991 164S Black Beauty II ALFISTO;

Daughter's current ride: BB1 my 164L and Her Granddads 2002 Ford Taurus is back up.

New parts hauler but not car hauler 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 4.7L H.O. V-8

Needing TLC non-blackbeast the 93 164L

"A day without an Alfa whine is like a day without sunshine"
Alfisto Steve is offline  
post #74 of 332 (permalink) Old 12-26-2010, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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How to change out an Alfa 164 air conditioning and heater blower motor and heater cor

How to remove/change out an Alfa 164 air conditioning and heater blower motor and heater core

PREPPING THE SYSTEM FIRST:
Open hood (bonnet) and remove plastic cover behind false firewall over top of a/c system components.
With ignition switch on and battery still connected and a/c panel on push lower temperature button setting to LO position in temp window to move temp lever fully forward on blower motor housing. This so you can disconnect wire cable from lever later on. If lever in retracted position for heat it will be against rubber seal in firewall and you can’t disconnect cable.
Verify temperature stepper motor moved lever on side of blower motor housing fully forward by using a flashlight and looking down in between black blower motor housing and black A/C evaporator box (look at point where passenger side (LHD) wiper arm pivot point located).
With power still on a/c panel, locate wiring connector to recirculation door motor (back R/H corner of evaporator box). If recirculation door fully open or fully closed in top back of evaporator box push recirculation door button (bottom row R/H button) and before door either fully closes or opens disconnect wiring connector so door stops in a mid-position.
Now turn off key and disconnect battery negative cable in trunk. Note: If car has alarm system activated you need to turn off siren first with key inserted in alarm switch under R/H carpet in trunk (boot).
REMOVING THE AIR CLEANER:
Unlock four (4) locking tabs on air cleaner, disconnect Bosch connector to air flow meter (AFM) and loosen clamp holding AFM to black corrugated tube.
Remove top half of air cleaner and AFM assembly.
Remove four (4) nuts and washers holding lower box of air cleaner and remove it.
DRAINING COOLANT:
If a 12v 164 remove plastic cover between left head light in front of air cleaner and then with drip pan and catch can under radiator, remove cooling fan thermal switch from left tank of radiator and drain enough coolant to drain plastic coolant tank.
If a 24v 164 draining coolant is more difficult and messy by removing heater hose from steel tube coming out between rears of heads. So place drip pan and catch can under transmission bell housing area.
Remove cap from coolant tank to control draining and to verify when tank is empty.
REMOVING COOLANT TANK:
After coolant drained, loosen two small hose clamps and remove hoses from tank. Remove two mounting screws and disconnect connector to coolant float sensor.
Lift up coolant tank enough to access hose coolant holding heater hose tee to tank and squeeze spring clamp enough to remove tank from hose.
REMOVING FALSE FIREWALL (FFW):
Remove rubber seal from top of false firewall (do not lose the two rubber end caps located at hood struts attach points).
Remove three (3) screws holding false firewall in place (one each top corner and one hidden one under bottom of brake fluid reservoir).
Remove two screws holding steel fuel line bracket to top center of FFW. Retain/remove bracket from fuel line.
Remove L-shaped hose and clamps between black oil fume separator and rear valve cover.
Remove the phillips screw and clamp holding two black hoses to top of throttle body black plastic cover.
Remove two allen head bolts holding oil separator to rear of intake plenum.
Remove oil separator from small drain hose at its base (small hose goes to drain port on rear head).
Remove bolt and clamp holding idle actuator to intake.
Loosen clamp holding black corrugated tube to intake throttle body.
Remove IAC from intake and disconnect Bosch electrical connector from it.
Remove oil separator, idle actuator with hoses and corrugated tube as an assembly from intake
If working on 1995 164 model with EGR valve then, EGR valve and brake booster banjo fitting bolts need to be removed from both intake and exhaust manifolds and EGR valve needs to be disconnected from Bosch connector and removed from intake. Do not lose any copper sealing washers or hollow metal spacers.
Remove two screws from clamps holding wiring harness to FFW (one under where oil separator was and one under area of throttle body on end of intake plenum).
Lift wiring harness out of metal bracket in middle of FFW between two clamps screws removed from.
Pop two metal fuel lines out of plastic clamp on firewall near top motor mount dog bone.
Disconnect large round wiring harness connector from behind FFW and remove rubber boot and harness through hole in FFW.
If attached on 12v models unmounts brake light relay from back of FFW.
Disconnect wiring connector going to blower motor housing.
Remove two bolts and nuts holding heater hose rubber mount from FFW.
Disconnect small round connector from harness behind FFW.
Unlock blower motor 40A fuse bar holder from backside of FFW electrical terminal board.
Remove large 13mm nut and two 10mm nuts from backside of terminal board and remove wires from threaded lugs.
Pull terminal board loose from FFW leaving front battery and starter cable still hooked to it.
Pull up and out of cat the false firewall.
REMOVING WINDSHIELD MOTOR AND RACK ASSEMBLY:
Remove black plastic caps and nuts from wiper arm pivot points and remove wiper arms. Do not mix up left and right arms. Mark them if needed to remember.
Remove black plastic caps from bolts holding wiper motor rack and remove the 3 bolts.
Remove FFW brace laying over blower motor housing.
Remove plastic retaining ring on small round electrical connector and remove connector and harness from bracket.
Remove plastic cover over blower motor relay and unlock relay socket holder from bracket.
Remove two nuts holding bracket to body and remove bracket.
Remove bolts holding P/S fluid reservoir from body.
Remove nuts holding black ground wires to body behind brake reservoir attach point.
Remove the final 10mm bolt holding wiper motor rack to body (bolt screws into metal firewall under base of windshield).
Rotate wiper rack enough to be able to disconnect electrical wiring connector to it and remove wiper rack from body.
REMOVING BLOWER MOTOR HOUSING FROM HEATER CORE BOX:
Move wiring harnesses enough to be able to loosen hose clamps holding heater hoses to heater core at metal firewall.
Remove hoses from heater core and pull towards engine bay.
Remove nut and clamp holding A/C hose and servicing valve to inner R/H wall of engine compartment in front of timing belt covers.
Remove two 8mm bolts holding A/C evaporator box to body and remove two 8 mm bolts holding evaporator box mounting bracket to right side of body.
Drill out rivet and remove plastic cover over recirculation motor under right corner of base of windshield.
Remove two screws holding motor to evaporator box and slide motor shaft off recirculation door.
Move and lift a/c box off of blower motor housing while lifting rigid a/c line, servicing valve and rubber hose to a/c compressor alongside of inner body in engine bay.
Support hood fully open with a metal pipe or long piece of wood so it can’t close.
Attach a ratchet strap to opening in end of evaporator box to blower motor and to metal frame of hood grill and tighten ratchet strap to lift end of evaporator box up and away from blower motor housing and to hold it up.
Locate lever and cable on side of blower motor housing and remove metal locking pal not on shaft end of lever and remove metal cable from stepper motor from it.
Now using a flat blade putty knife on metal latch underneath where heater hoses were hooked. Slip blade into latch to unhook it from blower housing. Leave putty knife in place.
Now locate second same style metal latch on other side of housing and unlatch it by using long flat blade screwdriver going down from top to pry metal latch off tab on housing.
With both metal spring latches hold off housing tabs rotate blower housing assembly off heater core box and rotate out of body of car.
REMOVING HEATER CORE:
After blower motor housing removed, slide out heater core from heater box.

Ciao, Alfisto Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
AROC 164 Tech Advisor

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Daily drivers: USA models - 1991 164S Black Beauty II ALFISTO;

Daughter's current ride: BB1 my 164L and Her Granddads 2002 Ford Taurus is back up.

New parts hauler but not car hauler 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 4.7L H.O. V-8

Needing TLC non-blackbeast the 93 164L

"A day without an Alfa whine is like a day without sunshine"

Last edited by Alfisto Steve; 12-27-2010 at 02:49 AM.
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post #75 of 332 (permalink) Old 12-27-2010, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alfisto Steve View Post
REMOVING FALSE FIREWALL (FFW):
Remove rubber seal from top of false firewall (do not lose the two rubber end caps located at hood struts attach points).
Remove three (3) screws holding false firewall in place (one each top corner and one hidden one under bottom of brake fluid reservoir).
Remove two screws holding steel fuel line bracket to top center of FFW. Retain/remove bracket from fuel line.
...
Comprehensive write up there.
One thing I would add for readers in the UK, Australia, NZ, and a few Asian countries: firewall also has clutch fluid supply line attached to engine bay side for RHD manual-transmission versions. The plastic-coated steel line runs the full width of the firewall and is pressed into two tightly-fitting spring clips - difficult to remove. If not noticed, you would wonder why firewall will not lift out once everything else removed. With minimal clearance and the tendency of the line to bend, I found this became the hardest part of the job, stabbing around with a screwdriver trying to open the clips.

I also found that wiring on engine bay side was attached with cable tie to fitting screwed onto firewall. Easiest to cut the cable tie rather than to unscrew the fitting.

-Alex

Momentarily Alfaless
'07 CLS 550, '09 500 Lounge Dualogic, '71 850 Coupe, '03 Stilo Abarth Selespeed

Last edited by AlexGS; 12-27-2010 at 11:21 PM.
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