[twoliterlover]

Charles, So great that you are getting to the fine details. As to those chrome attachment devices, those little pieces are usually so rusted that they break on taking the chromes off and have to be remade every time. Easy to do. Start with a flat stock and small diameter threaded stock (hard for me to give good measurements in metric) to create a small flat plate just big enough to fit into the widened spot on the chrome piece, and not so wide that it cannot be slid forward and backward. Put a hole in the center of it and use the threaded small diameter stock to put into the hole and weld or solder onto the flat piece itself so those threaded pieces won't come loose when you tighten the nuts on the other ends. The three under the door get bolted on the inside of the lip. The front and the rear use a long piece of threaded stock bent to face toward the wheel wells so that the fastening nut is actually tightened under the inside lip of the wheel wells front and aft. On the smaller horizontal piece above the "hash marks" (as I call them) on both sides, the rear bolt (the one in front of the door) can be reached through the bodywork from inside, but the front must still use the longer "nut in the wheel well" procedure. I do not myself like the chrome strips on the door and behind it as is the common scheme on the "European version" two liter, and never use them. But if you do, the door is assessable on the inside and the piece behind the door is done the same way as the one in front -- a shorter piece tightened through the body from inside and the piece tightened under the rear fender lip. I hope my description helps, but I since I hope to be installing my own chrome pieces this week end and I will try to take some metric measurements for the pieces and send some pictures. NOT rocket science! Jay